...And, today's date is???

Despite their HD capabilities, I'm told that CRT monitors are best for colour calibration, etc. I'd suggest taking a trot down to your local PC shop, and have a look at what's available. Don't make the mistake of taking the salesperson's advice though - they're on commission, so they're gonna convince you that the most expensive one's the best - oh, and would you like an extended warranty with that, sir??..

Matt - depends on when these 2 weddings are... If it's a couple of months away, I'd suggest going to the church/registry office where the weddings will take place. With any luck, there might be a ceremony taking place on the day, so (with the bride and groom's permission) take a few shots as an "add-on" to their own photographer (with his blessing, of course!). I done a few shots like this for a friend. They were all taken when the attendees were all "stood down" after the formal poses. Everybody was in a more relaxed and natural pose, and I was pleased with the outdoor shots. The indoor shots were not all that pleasing to me, as I hadn't previously got the chance to pre-assess the lighting conditions, hence the indoor shots had a tungsten hue. I managed to correct them using PSE though, to try to minimise the green hue.

Been there... Seen it, done it, and as we speak - the t-shirts are in production!!

Stan - I had downloaded the trial version of their software that makes your photos look as though they were shot on traditional film. Although it seems to work, it isn't quite my "cup of tea". That's not to say that the product is poor though. I think it's a matter of personal taste. I mainly use PSE, but I have Topaz, Tiffen, On-One, and Anthropics software on standby. At the end of the day, it's not really about the software, it's what you've used it for. I think if we were all totally honest here, we have all taken shots that on reflection might look better with a crop here, a tweak there, etc. If you feel that a particular brand of software gives you the results you want, who are we to gasp in awe at the results that a software suite costing £500 gave you, or mock you at the results freeware offers. If you create an image that you are proud to show off to others, then what does it matter how you achieved it?

Could be my monitor, but #1 looks as though the whites are a tad grey. #2 looks great, composition-wise, but maybe a bit on the "over-exposed" side of things?? Perhaps it would be a better picture if shot in HDR mode??

Paul - here's a link to a similar thread. There's another couple of links within this thread you mat want to take a look at as well. Hope this helps you.

https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/old-family-photos-34085

Bjorn - you seem to have a lot of Molde on your camera lenses!!

If it's a PK-a fit, it should mount. Are you lining up the red dot on the lens mount with the red dot on the camera body?

George - you've pretty much nailed it on the head! Airlines set their own excess baggage charges, which are considerably more expensive than the rates set out by IATA for freight charges.

My advice is: once you have packed essentials (clothes, sun cream, etc) in your suitcase, check the weight of your camera bag when full of your equipment. Since you are most likely to carry this as cabin luggage, most airlines restrict baggage size (length, width, height) and/or weight, generally restricted to not more than 7.0kg. Although they may turn a blind eye to the fact that you've gone a couple of kilos over your baggage allowance and your cabin baggage, this is discretionary, so if you are "invited" to pay X amount for going over your allowance, don't be surprised.