On the of chance that my attempt to ascertain the edge markings of old Fuji (slide) film is not just of interest to me alone, I've had a reply frm Fuji . Nice little attachment quoting current info. Really useful. All available on the web site if you drill down by film.

Maybe the nice person at Fuji will read my email querry properly on Monday when he signs on


Steve

Glad the typo/memory error was appreciated . I did of course mean Neopan 400 CN - know that's 100% correct 'cos I've got a roll out of my fridge to ensure no further blushes!


Steve

Take a look at

http://the-darkroom.co.uk

Good range of options for films and print variations. Same day turn around for D&P.


Steve

You're not by chance putting the filter holder on with a Skylight or UV filter already inplace are you? Something I've done with Polarisers far more often than I'd like to admit (usually with a zoom :blush - what you have discribed sounds like vignetting.

Most filter systems are OK to 28mm in 35mm terms, then you have to be careful and use the wider/bigger Pro series if you are using a 24mm or 20mm even.

Steve

Print film is the easiest and quickest to get processed - Boots and Jessops will do it in an hour . B & W and slide have to be done mail order - The Darkroom UK in Cheltenham do both on a freepost basis with dispatch same day as received - I've found them pretty good with slide but I've not tried them with B & W - last roll I used was Fuji Neoprene 400 which is a colour process B & W film.

As to which colour film, Reala is easy to get. Worth a look is Fuji Pro either 160S or 160C - very slight colour balance variations with the S version aimed more at portrait useage.

Velvia can be both very rewarding and disappointing - the colour saturation can be over powering - my first roll had a lot of Greek early light on water with reflections of buildings in it and compared to the digi equiv, looked very odd. Didn't put me off - still using it.



Steve

I think the best place to start would be with an ME Super. Not complicated to learn, good for basic technique - you don't get a Depth of Field button/lever, so you have to work it out using the markings on the lens and as Womble says, plentiful and won't hurt the cash flow much. M or K series lens are also not expensive and a good range of options are readily available.

If you are happy with film, then good copies of LXs amd MXs can still be found. I have a particular fondness for my Super A's which sadly don't get much use these days as I tend to use an MZ-S with my K20/K10 set.

If you use slide, Velvia is best kept in a fridge. It extends its life considerably - I'm still using Best Before July 05 Velvia 100F as it's been refrigerated most of its life.


Steve

The best programme I've used for getting boarderless prints is Abobe Lightroom.

You'll get the best results with a HP 100 cartridge as Gwyn says - standard blacks don't have the scope for the tonal range needed.


Steve

The Lowepro Lens Case 1N is about the right width for the 49mm thread lenses - with a doubled up piece of bubble wrap as a horizontal divider, would give you a 2 lens carrier which could be put on a belt.


Steve

Worth looking at 7dayshop.com for SDHC cards - Class 6 Kingston 4Gb cards 6.50 post free for 1, as little as 5.50 for 5 . Kingston 8Gb Class 6 a touch under £12. Used both the 4Gb Class 4 & 6 with my K10 and K20 with no problems.


Steve

Looks like a useful bag but there is no mention of any capacity to hang any sliplock accessories on it - which is a bit of a downer imho as it restricts lens choise to whatever will fit inside - and I don't think this would include my Sigma 135-400 or 150-500 (one of which is usually hung on my walkabout pack). Still, at £39 a pop, worth serious consideration.


Steve