Thank you David for meeting up and sharing the secret location (which was crawling with orchidologists from far and wide), we had a great time exploring the site and trying not to flatten anything: difficult when flat out on the ground! I hesitate to post my photos of the selfsame plant as they are not of the same standard but here goes anyway. All K1 + 100mm macro with a couple of fill flash from my dinky AF201FG.










And three more from the same place:

Her indoors said we needed more colour in the garden, and when was I going to do something about that wall basket? So as always do as instructed.

The thinking is that UV filters are not needed on digital cameras as their effect on film doesn’t come across on a digital sensor - don’t ask me why, I am not that technically minded. They were more often kept on for lens protection as you say, I do sometimes use them but you are probably better off with a lens protection filter, they are made of tougher glass and a good quality one shouldn’t noticeably degrade the image. I tend to go for Marumi and the pro grade Hoya filters. It isn’t just the accidental scratches etc. they protect the lens from but inadvertent damage to the coating and glass when wiping it clean, I just prefer to keep the lens absolutely pristine and not risk something costing up to two grand to replace.

I too would have walked right past, whereabouts are they? I especially like the last shot, cool and understated.

I am the opposite of Mike-P, the 24-70mm is probably my most widely used lens but then I am using it for assignment shoots where sharpness and depth of field control are paramount and I don’t have to walk far. If I want a bit more reach then I will also pack the 77mm Limited and 100mm macro as they are relatively small and light, although in reality I hardly ever change lenses in those situations. The weight and bulk is an issue though which put me off initially when I bought the K1 so got the 28-105mm which serves ok as a walkabout lens, although I often prefer a lightweight prime like the f2.8 50mm macro instead so it is probably my least used lens.

Having said all that, looking again at my first shots with the K1/28-105mm there are some pretty good ones so perhaps I am missing a trick.

Rather more detailed but much the same conclusions in Outdoor Photography this month, but given it’s suitability for outdoor work I am surprised it wasn’t rated higher. I cannot get over the obsession in these reviews over price, always comparing it to other cheaper models when it should be valued as part of your overall photography kit and not just a single item. After all a body without a lens isn’t much use and the lens ranges of mirrorless offerings are still pretty meagre - tilt-shift anyone? High quality small lightweight primes (other than Leica M series)?

I haven’t used this Lee Filters set-up much recently so have kept the mount off the 15-30 f2.8 lens it is designed for, instead keeping it in a rear pocket of my bag. Anyhow it must have had a bit of a knock because the threads of the parts that fit on the lens had crossed and were well and truly jammed together. Given its wide diameter I was struggling to get a purchase without damaging the parts but users will know that the one part has four lugs which correspond with the petal lens hood. So, a bit of WD40 and two nails in a chunky lump of wood spaced to suit the lugs meant I could twist them apart, and no worse for the experience. I now keep it on the lens but not fully tightened so it comes off easily if I want.

Her indoors told me to do something about the wall basket which has been neglected for years so a few quid spent at the nursery and there we go!

I have never seen this before! Well documented and explained, interesting how the colours get triggered by light, or is it exposure to air? Chris Packham would know.

Hi Gareth, great result, I suppose another option would be to get the exposures right in LR then just focus stack in PS, letting the software sort out that awkward area where the two photos merge in the middle. However if anything is moving like trees or the sea then your method is best.

Lubbyman, hyperfocal distance is something I only managed to get right once, when a pro stood over me, pointed to a spot seemingly far too close and told me to focus on that! It helped having a wide angle lens as well.