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Excellent news Gwyn.....must be a very good day now
Comment by Nimitz posted on Woohoo!!!!! at 06/08/2008 - 12:41
Malo1961 wrote:
There are still a lot of things that need repair. I noticed ( and this really annoys me ) that after you mark all threads as read, you can come back after an hour and when you hit the new post button the same posts are blinking green again.
Of course they aren't new.Martin.
I have this as well - and made a report. I hope it is solved soon.....There are still a lot of things that need repair. I noticed ( and this really annoys me ) that after you mark all threads as read, you can come back after an hour and when you hit the new post button the same posts are blinking green again.
Of course they aren't new.Martin.
Comment by Nimitz posted on New forum Style at 06/08/2008 - 08:56
Nathan - as Matt states - one image (raw file) is not enough to use the full dynamic range.
I agree - Tonemapped pictures looks great - but you still clip the entire range. By using several pictures with different shutterspeed you don't clip the tonal range.
The method you use I use as well. It is very good and produce stunning reuslts.
So I agree - you method is very good - no question about it.
I agree - Tonemapped pictures looks great - but you still clip the entire range. By using several pictures with different shutterspeed you don't clip the tonal range.
The method you use I use as well. It is very good and produce stunning reuslts.
So I agree - you method is very good - no question about it.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Haddon Hall Chapel HDR at 06/08/2008 - 08:07
nathanever82 wrote:
I've shown some of my hdr in the picture forum.
I honestly don't understand why you want to super-impose different shots when you can just shoot 1 correct exposure in RAW and then save 1-2-3-5 a million differently exposed (yet exactly the same image) images.
Well mainly because that is not a HDR image. Thats is just a tonemapped raw file. It can look very good, but will limit your results.I've shown some of my hdr in the picture forum.
I honestly don't understand why you want to super-impose different shots when you can just shoot 1 correct exposure in RAW and then save 1-2-3-5 a million differently exposed (yet exactly the same image) images.
HDR can only be achieved by mulitiple shots.
I use the tonemapping on moving subjects. It looks good - no question about it, but it is just a PP technich like dodge or burn or similar.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Haddon Hall Chapel HDR at 06/08/2008 - 06:54
1) If you want a minimum speed use Tv mode. In that mode you set the shutterspeed.
2)In general you can shots iso through the fn menu. Push the fn button to enter it.
3) In the custom settings menu you can change the two handle in each to suit you. Eg I have Iso on the back and apperture on the front wheel in Av mode. Others have it the other way around....and so on.
I hope that helps.
I don't know the tokina lens. Try ask in the lens section of this site. The 3.5 - 4.5 is tha maximum aperture. The lower the number the better the lens is. A "high" (good) apperture is around 2.8 and lover.
2)In general you can shots iso through the fn menu. Push the fn button to enter it.
3) In the custom settings menu you can change the two handle in each to suit you. Eg I have Iso on the back and apperture on the front wheel in Av mode. Others have it the other way around....and so on.
I hope that helps.
I don't know the tokina lens. Try ask in the lens section of this site. The 3.5 - 4.5 is tha maximum aperture. The lower the number the better the lens is. A "high" (good) apperture is around 2.8 and lover.
Comment by Nimitz posted on K10d and automatic ISO change criterion at 05/08/2008 - 18:21
Malo1961 wrote:
And for us Bl**dy foreigners we just have to come up, with something in our native language and translate that to the proper English proverb??
That exercise might be tougher as the actual picture taking.
Martin.
Just my thaugts.....And for us Bl**dy foreigners we just have to come up, with something in our native language and translate that to the proper English proverb??
That exercise might be tougher as the actual picture taking.
Martin.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Weekly Competition # 57 - at 05/08/2008 - 14:20
For HDR I always use matrix mode. I use whatever the camera suggest as my "middle" shot.
I then take multiple shots with a different shutterspeed but with the same F-value (important). (eg 5 shots like this -2, -1, "0", +1, +2 or -2,6; -1,3; "0", +1,3; +2,6)
The spacing is always (consistent) the same - but sometimes i use 1 or 2 - or even 1,3 or 0,7 as spacing. It all depends on what you want, what contrast you want and so - and you only learn by experience.
I then take multiple shots with a different shutterspeed but with the same F-value (important). (eg 5 shots like this -2, -1, "0", +1, +2 or -2,6; -1,3; "0", +1,3; +2,6)
The spacing is always (consistent) the same - but sometimes i use 1 or 2 - or even 1,3 or 0,7 as spacing. It all depends on what you want, what contrast you want and so - and you only learn by experience.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Haddon Hall Chapel HDR at 05/08/2008 - 09:58
Gary nice workflow - but I have to disagree with some of your settings.
I think you have a very high saturation and stregnht for natuaral looking pictures. I use very similar settings and get saturated results (see the photo section).
Regarding the strenght - changing this will change the light in the picture. So I play around with this setting all the time to see the difference in the light. I only set it to high if I have to avoid halos - as the strenghr button will remove these (almost).
Regarding the numbers of exposures - I tend to use 3 with 2 ev spacing if I want a high contrast picture and 5 shots for higher dynamic range. It all depends of the shot and intention. I always shot 5 shots - just in case.
The F-value is controlled by the DOF I want.
Just my input - but a very good workflow you have described.
I think you have a very high saturation and stregnht for natuaral looking pictures. I use very similar settings and get saturated results (see the photo section).
Regarding the strenght - changing this will change the light in the picture. So I play around with this setting all the time to see the difference in the light. I only set it to high if I have to avoid halos - as the strenghr button will remove these (almost).
Regarding the numbers of exposures - I tend to use 3 with 2 ev spacing if I want a high contrast picture and 5 shots for higher dynamic range. It all depends of the shot and intention. I always shot 5 shots - just in case.
The F-value is controlled by the DOF I want.
Just my input - but a very good workflow you have described.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Haddon Hall Chapel HDR at 05/08/2008 - 09:27
Thanks Dan. I guess you are right.
I have doen some google searching on the issue. It seems that the K10D is not the ideal camera for IR, but the Ist and K100D seems a lot better.
I have seen a lot of shots now with the K10D. All done with 15+ seconds. Very creative - and stunning when including water. Now I just have to be creative or ebay the filter
I have doen some google searching on the issue. It seems that the K10D is not the ideal camera for IR, but the Ist and K100D seems a lot better.
I have seen a lot of shots now with the K10D. All done with 15+ seconds. Very creative - and stunning when including water. Now I just have to be creative or ebay the filter
Comment by Nimitz posted on IR Cokin filter and K10D at 05/08/2008 - 09:00
I love this style of pictures. You got it right this time.
I like the toning and feel. You can feel that the chapel is old. Well done.
I like the toning and feel. You can feel that the chapel is old. Well done.
Comment by Nimitz posted on Haddon Hall Chapel HDR at 05/08/2008 - 07:00
