K10d and automatic ISO change criterion
Posted 05/08/2008 - 18:21
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1) If you want a minimum speed use Tv mode. In that mode you set the shutterspeed.
2)In general you can shots iso through the fn menu. Push the fn button to enter it.
3) In the custom settings menu you can change the two handle in each to suit you. Eg I have Iso on the back and apperture on the front wheel in Av mode. Others have it the other way around....and so on.
I hope that helps.
I don't know the tokina lens. Try ask in the lens section of this site. The 3.5 - 4.5 is tha maximum aperture. The lower the number the better the lens is. A "high" (good) apperture is around 2.8 and lover.
2)In general you can shots iso through the fn menu. Push the fn button to enter it.
3) In the custom settings menu you can change the two handle in each to suit you. Eg I have Iso on the back and apperture on the front wheel in Av mode. Others have it the other way around....and so on.
I hope that helps.
I don't know the tokina lens. Try ask in the lens section of this site. The 3.5 - 4.5 is tha maximum aperture. The lower the number the better the lens is. A "high" (good) apperture is around 2.8 and lover.
Posted 05/08/2008 - 19:56
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I haven't noticed or worked out exactly what it is, but the K10D's criterion is based on the shutter speed and focal length. It tries to prevent you from going below a certain speed for a certain length. You might find it is a bit optimistic, though.
TAv is also useful when you want to make sure the shutter speed doesn't get too low (or high). Or just use any mode you like with manual ISO control.
TAv is also useful when you want to make sure the shutter speed doesn't get too low (or high). Or just use any mode you like with manual ISO control.
~Pete
Posted 05/08/2008 - 20:17
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I've tried Auto Iso a little but also found it a bit unpredictable so don't use it anymore....
Don't forget that manual Iso can be changed extremely quickly/easily in AV/TV modes by simply pressing the "OK" button & using the front control wheel - I always use this instead of Auto
simon
Don't forget that manual Iso can be changed extremely quickly/easily in AV/TV modes by simply pressing the "OK" button & using the front control wheel - I always use this instead of Auto
simon
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Posted 05/08/2008 - 20:58
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I use Av mode with Auto ISO.
However, I have programmed the front wheel to be ISO - rotating the finger wheel will fix the ISO, and pressing the green will set it back to Auto.
In that mode the viewfinder shows Av, Tv, and ISO
Takes a little getting used to (reading three values at once) but it works for me!
Matt
However, I have programmed the front wheel to be ISO - rotating the finger wheel will fix the ISO, and pressing the green will set it back to Auto.
In that mode the viewfinder shows Av, Tv, and ISO
Takes a little getting used to (reading three values at once) but it works for me!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
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Posted 06/08/2008 - 08:21
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Which mode are you using?
Isn't this controlled by the Program Line setting?
Isn't this controlled by the Program Line setting?
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Pentax K10D, 50, 18-55, 28-70, 100, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 18-250, 28-75
Pentax K10D, 50, 18-55, 28-70, 100, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 18-250, 28-75
Posted 06/08/2008 - 13:10
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iceblinker: your idea seems to be the right one. I'll try to verify that.
MattMatic: I'm using exactly the same config as you, it works great. The only problem is getting used to these three numbers. But the advantage of getting more ISO than just one is worth it! And I like the front wheel changing ISO, as well as the green button. K10d is great with the wheel configurations, I like it a lot!
Nimitz: I know about Tv, TAv and the rest... my question was only about the criterion of ISO increase. The same about the lens, my Tokina is 2.8 all length. 3.5-4.5 is the minimum (maximum?) aperture at various focal distances.
Ericp: hmmm, frankly I don't know. Let me check it tonight but I doubt it.
MattMatic: I'm using exactly the same config as you, it works great. The only problem is getting used to these three numbers. But the advantage of getting more ISO than just one is worth it! And I like the front wheel changing ISO, as well as the green button. K10d is great with the wheel configurations, I like it a lot!
Nimitz: I know about Tv, TAv and the rest... my question was only about the criterion of ISO increase. The same about the lens, my Tokina is 2.8 all length. 3.5-4.5 is the minimum (maximum?) aperture at various focal distances.
Ericp: hmmm, frankly I don't know. Let me check it tonight but I doubt it.
Posted 06/08/2008 - 15:04
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F-values is quite confusing. You call it maximum apperture eventhoug it is the lowest number.
If it is F2.8 all lenght it is f2.8 all lenght. I don't get what you mean by recognized to be 3.5-4.5.
A lens with F2.8 in the entire zoomrange is usually best stopped down one or two stops - eg. best at F3.5-4.
If it is F2.8 all lenght it is f2.8 all lenght. I don't get what you mean by recognized to be 3.5-4.5.
Ohawa wrote:
Perhaps because it is recognized as 28-70/3.5-4.5? Does this affect something?
Normally 3.5-4.5 mens that maximum apperture at the wide end is F3.5 and maximum apperture at the long end is F4.5. So yes it changes as you zoom.Perhaps because it is recognized as 28-70/3.5-4.5? Does this affect something?
A lens with F2.8 in the entire zoomrange is usually best stopped down one or two stops - eg. best at F3.5-4.
Posted 06/08/2008 - 16:09
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When I look at the EXIF data of an image taken with the Tokina it says 28-70/3.5-4.5 not 28-70/2.8. This is what I meant by 'recognized as 28-70/3.5-4.5 lens'.
Well according to photozone the Tokina ain't such a great lens but once I have I'll use it.
Well according to photozone the Tokina ain't such a great lens but once I have I'll use it.
Posted 06/08/2008 - 16:37
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MattMatic wrote:
I use Av mode with Auto ISO.
However, I have programmed the front wheel to be ISO - rotating the finger wheel will fix the ISO, and pressing the green will set it back to Auto.
In that mode the viewfinder shows Av, Tv, and ISO
Takes a little getting used to (reading three values at once) but it works for me!
Matt
Thanks for pointing that out Matt. Should be very handy.I use Av mode with Auto ISO.
However, I have programmed the front wheel to be ISO - rotating the finger wheel will fix the ISO, and pressing the green will set it back to Auto.
In that mode the viewfinder shows Av, Tv, and ISO
Takes a little getting used to (reading three values at once) but it works for me!
Matt
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Posted 07/08/2008 - 07:06
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beachboy: yes indeed it is very handy, it was one of the first things that I set up on my k10.
Some experiments from yesterday: the criterion for ISO change depends on the focal length - as nimitz suggested. I tried this with the kit 18-55 lens: k10 changes ISO at 1/30 for 18mm and at 1/60 for 55mm. I will try more tonight with longer focal lengths.
Some experiments from yesterday: the criterion for ISO change depends on the focal length - as nimitz suggested. I tried this with the kit 18-55 lens: k10 changes ISO at 1/30 for 18mm and at 1/60 for 55mm. I will try more tonight with longer focal lengths.
Posted 07/08/2008 - 07:56
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I would expect that the criteria for selecting sensor sensitivity would include some or all of the following:
1 The focal length. A longer length demands a higher shutter speed, so either sensitivity or aperture must be changed to compensate.
2 Lens MTF. This information is included in recent Pentax lenses, and tells the camera the "best" aperture to use (in other words, the aperture that gives the best results for the given lens).
3 Depth of field. There might be an attempt to avoid very wide apertures in order to maintain DOF.
There are no doubt others I haven't thought of.
Number 2 provides one reason why a Pentax lens might be treated differently from a third party lens, or indeed from an A series lens.
As for comparative lens sharpness, the clue might lie in the names on the lenses. There is a reason for the Riley Rule.
G
1 The focal length. A longer length demands a higher shutter speed, so either sensitivity or aperture must be changed to compensate.
2 Lens MTF. This information is included in recent Pentax lenses, and tells the camera the "best" aperture to use (in other words, the aperture that gives the best results for the given lens).
3 Depth of field. There might be an attempt to avoid very wide apertures in order to maintain DOF.
There are no doubt others I haven't thought of.
Number 2 provides one reason why a Pentax lens might be treated differently from a third party lens, or indeed from an A series lens.
As for comparative lens sharpness, the clue might lie in the names on the lenses. There is a reason for the Riley Rule.
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 07/08/2008 - 08:47
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I agree with 1), 2) - not using recent Pentax lenses therefore I can't verify. 3) I was working in Av hence the aperture was set by me.
Tokina 28-70/2.8: Just found that EXIF data from Photome show Tokina ATX 28-70/2.6-2.8 but Pentax Photo Browser shows 28-80/3.5-4.5... a Pentax lens with closest parameters to Tokina perhaps?
Btw as from very, very rough comparison from yesterday Pentax 18-55/3.5-5.6 is not better than the Tokina.
Tokina 28-70/2.8: Just found that EXIF data from Photome show Tokina ATX 28-70/2.6-2.8 but Pentax Photo Browser shows 28-80/3.5-4.5... a Pentax lens with closest parameters to Tokina perhaps?
Btw as from very, very rough comparison from yesterday Pentax 18-55/3.5-5.6 is not better than the Tokina.
Posted 07/08/2008 - 08:56
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Quote:
Btw as from very, very rough comparison from yesterday Pentax 18-55/3.5-5.6 is not better than the Tokina.
Not better than the Tokina 28-80mm do you mean? If so, these are two very different sorts of lenses and not really comparable directly.Btw as from very, very rough comparison from yesterday Pentax 18-55/3.5-5.6 is not better than the Tokina.
Lens testing is a very precise art that takes a considerable amount of effort to produce meaningful results. Apart obviously from being able to spot reals "duds" straight away!
Best regards, John
Posted 07/08/2008 - 16:28
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Well I said very very rough comparison. I had some doubts from several photos taken with the Tokina lens but I agree that lens testing is long process and it requires certain degree of experience especially in optics. I won't adventure into this, at least not now. I was just trying to find out whether there are some 'duds' as you say but found none so far.
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And just curious question: does anybody here have any experience with Tokina 28-70/2.8 ATX-pro and k10d lens? To me it seems surprisingly less sharp than the 18-55. Perhaps because it is recognized as 28-70/3.5-4.5? Does this affect something?