max11

Joined: 10th April 2009

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max11
You're right, I think I will end up with the fastpack 200 and maybe later something smaller for a daytrip.

I did soem other research, and have to say...why every bag has a limit/defect?
for example the lowepro mini trekker AW seems perfect to carry also a big weight, with waterproof cover and tripod attach, but hasn't got a quick access.

the Lopwepro primus is good as well but exist in one size, very small!



Any experience on space for 50-300?
CAn I buy separately a Lowepro waterproof cover or similar?

Comment by max11 posted on Is Lowepro Slingshot really that good? at 02/05/2009 - 09:44

max11
Thank you all for your opinions!
I'm oriented to take the fastpack 200, both for the 2 shoulder system (I walk a lot) and also for the price at the moment.
It as a kind of quick access as well.

My only concern is the absence of a raincover and of an attach for a tripod, even if I think I can remedy with some handmade way.

Also probably I read that it could be a little bit tight for a lense like 50-300 and need it to be attached to the body.

Has anyone experience about that?
thank you

Comment by max11 posted on Is Lowepro Slingshot really that good? at 01/05/2009 - 23:28

max11
Thank you guys, I understood the filters I talked about are too cheap and so low quality.

Quote:
Why not buy a polarizer, that filter is atleast usefull when it is on the lens. It removes the haze so that colours are much more vibrant, the sky is a deeper blue and plants become greener and of course you can controll reflections. Yes they cost double the price but they are worth it I believe.
I knew UV and skilight as a protection, but as I like deeper blue and greener plants, also polarizers are worth considering.

As my knowledge is low, I can't decide.
on Amazon for example HAze UV £18,90 , while Polarizinf £30 and 32 all on sale.

Help me please!

Comment by max11 posted on UV filters at 01/05/2009 - 22:01

max11
Thank you all for sharing your experience.
Probably I was too worried with the dust and agree when you say that "the main reasons for having an SLR is the ability to choose the right lens for the shot".

As to the dust, I read many posts, I understood that sensor has to be clean only when necessary.
But how? I found many possibilities...rocket blower, HArricane blower, Dslr cleaner, Dust off , fluids, vacuum systmes, and others...
really confused!

Comment by max11 posted on How often do you change lens? at 01/05/2009 - 20:53

max11
Hi everyone.
I was looking for a backpack. At the moment I own only a 17-70 mm, but as I will buy a couple of other lenses and I like to have more space for food, water,books etc. I was thinkingn to buy the sligshot 200£54,00.
Is the one shoulder system comfortable enough for all the day long?

Other optinos could be the Flipside 200 £ 46,00
or the Fastpack 200£ 36,00, the cheaopest one.
Any suggestion?
Thank you

Comment by max11 posted on Is Lowepro Slingshot really that good? at 01/05/2009 - 00:08

max11
Hi everyone.
I just bought the K20d with Sigma 17-70mm.
Using it for general photography, sometime I need more mms on the wide side (more often, but usually it is easy to step back) and sometime I need more tele (more difficoult to make enough steps!).
(that probably will take me to buy as a second lens a Pentax 55-300 or 50-200, more than a Pentax DA 12-24 mm or Sigma 10-20 or Tamron 10-24)

Sorry for the stupid question but in an average photographic excursion, how often is needed to change lens? I don't think it is fun to change to wide, then tele, then wide, and so on, also for the dust problem.
How do you do?

Comment by max11 posted on How often do you change lens? at 30/04/2009 - 23:29

max11
Hi everyone.

I've to buy an UV filter to protect the Sigma 17-70mm.

Even if the cost is not that high, can you recommend one type to me, please?

7days

dealextreme

kaidomain

Cheers

Comment by max11 posted on UV filters at 16/04/2009 - 22:45

max11
shim wrote:
max11 wrote:
The "normal" 4GB Kingston, Lexar, Sandisk (which one is better?) can be found at £5 or £6 at 7days.

If many says there is no big advantage in shooting, maybe they could be a good deal.

It may depend also on files dimensions.

At which image size do you shot? 4672 x 3104, 3872 x 2592, 1824 x 1216
How much are the file big in Mbyte?
Just looking at 7Day's site. I'm ordering one of these Fuji cards to see what they are like... 4GB Class 4 should be fast enough and at £9.49 delivered isn't too bad, although not as good as the Toshiba's that were only 6 quid. Some Fuji cards are made in Taiwan although the quality is usually good, all the Toshiba cards I've seen are made in Japan and are of very high quality. I've seen 2GB Panasonic's on another website quite cheap, but I've enough 2GB cards. Buy Class 4 or Class 6. The basic Class 2 is usable but slower.
Thank you for your clarity! You seem very expert in the field!
What about the Kingston? also the class 6 are very cheap! Any reliability issue?
To restrict the search field, which brands do you recommend and which ones do you advise against at all?

Quote:

With Jpegs it's best to shoot at the largest size (about 2.3MB file), you can always reduce it in the computer. PEF's can be 8-12MB each.

I shoot both PEF + JPG average about 12MB for the pair so that's over 300 shots on a 4GB card.

shim
George Lazarette wrote:

Does anybody NOT shoot at full size?
Yes with Jpeg it is convenient at the largest size if they are only 2.3MB (but are you sure? with my compact it was same size at 5 megapxl), even if I never print big prints

Comment by max11 posted on Urgent - Srs Microsystem at 16/04/2009 - 22:21

max11
The "normal" 4GB Kingston, Lexar, Sandisk (which one is better?) can be found at £5 or £6 at 7days.

If many says there is no big advantage in shooting, maybe they could be a good deal.

It may depend also on files dimensions.

At which image size do you shot? 4672 x 3104, 3872 x 2592, 1824 x 1216
How much are the file big in Mbyte?

Comment by max11 posted on Urgent - Srs Microsystem at 14/04/2009 - 23:14

max11
Hi everyone.
I'm going to receive my first DSLR + first lens!
(I'm looking forward for that moment :lol

As I read about lenses issues, is it easy for a newbie to check wether the lens is ok or not?

What I found on the web is the following test, hoping I can do it properly, is it enough?

"The AF system might be causing the focus to shift in front or behind the subject. You can do a quick test to determine this. We recommend photographing three cereal boxes or similar items (cake mix, etc) on your kitchen table. We recommend these because they provide a flat plane with fine detailed print that make focusing and determination of focus point easier (the back of the box might be the most detailed).

Place one box in the center of the table make sure it is parallel to the camera’s image sensor. Place another box parallel to the first box and in front of it about 1 inch in front and slide to the right to so that you can see most of the first box. Place the third box 1 inch behind and parallel to the center box and move it to the left. Framing all three, you should be able to see most of all three boxes. Use center focus to focus on the middle box. Take a shot with a shutter speed of at least 60 and lens aperture at the widest opening. Observe the shot. Is the center box the sharpest and the front and back boxes un-sharp? Is the front or back box sharper than the center box or is the sharpness of the front or back box nearly equal to the center box? If the very first case, the center is sharpest, the camera is OK. If either the front or back is sharper, the camera needs adjustment."

Cheers

Comment by max11 posted on Is it easy to check a new/used Lens? at 13/04/2009 - 17:04

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