(And sorry for butting in too...)

Just place tissue paper over the ring flash if there's too much power (or white cloth). Or even some polystyrene cut to size will definitely slug the power drastically.



Matt

The K10D isn't that bad to strip down - depending how far you need to go.

What isn't 100% obvious is that the SD card board and motherboard are linked by a really fine-pitch surface mount connector that can be ripped apart if you're not careful

I rebuilt one from two broken (my son uses it).

So I have one in pieces sitting on a shelf - broken LCD, broken SD-card inter-board connector. Everything else ok (mirrorbox, switches etc).


How far do you need to strip yours? (PM me)

Matt

Not static for me. Signs of a small firmware issue - I've made many such subtle errors in my time with firmware!!
Matt

Welcome to the forum John!

There is no way of adding a "digital back" to any SLR. Digital requires a huge amount of electronics, control mechanisms, and a battery - the whole thing would be huge and unwieldy!

But there is a way of sorts...

Buy a film scanner, shoot film and scan it!

Matt

It's also worth noting that it didn't lock up while shooting... that is to say, it rattled away like a good'un, I then paused and found that it wasn't focussing (with the AF button) and was unresponsive.

Having had a long history of firmware coding, I'd imagine there's just a small issue that's fixable - it's just pinning it down. Shame they didn't make use of a hardware watchdog that performs a reset automatically, rather than having to remove batteries!

I have the chance for another school match next week - but probably not the time! If I do get there, I'll try tweaking a couple of settings to try and perform a process of elimination

Note: I'd also point out that I've had no lock up issues other than while shooting at 7fps rugby, and am still really pleased with the K5IIs

Matt

Once with grip.
Twice without grip (i.e. no grip at all!)

It's not the grip with the K5IIs.

My suggestion was based on the fact that using the grip is nicer, but having a quick removal of the battery seems a good idea - so using a single grip battery is probably quicker to reboot than the fiddly body battery release lock and catch.

Matt

Also you must set the body to fixed ISO too!
(Not a problem if the body is in M mode)

FWIW, the Metz 50MZ5 with SCA3702 tracks the camera aperture, so Av mode with fixed ISO works very well indeed with the Metz on "A"

Matt

Couldn't find the original thread...

Covered my son's school rugby match yesterday. K5IIs did very well with both DA*50-135 and DA55-300. Focus was mostly bang on the money. Got some cracking shots - so was really pleased (>650 images, whittled down to 280! Yikes!)

However, the body locked up three times!

First time was with the grip and two Pentax batteries. Removed the grip to get at the body battery. Left grip off. After second lockup (with just the 201101 dated battery in the body) I switched to the battery supplied with the body. Locked up again in the middle of the second half

I think there's still a firmware gremlin lurking! Yes, it was version 1.03 firmware

Settings (from memory): User Mode 5, P mode, high speed program line, auto ISO, light & medium shadow correction, highlight correction, 16Mp *** JPG, high speed continuous shooting, Portrait colour, (mostly) custom white balance.

Using 16GB Samsung Extreme Class 10 card.


For now (at least), I'll shoot with one battery in the grip when doing fast action stuff - so I can reboot the camera quickly!!

Matt

I have a light brown imitation leather one from eBay - which works very well with the white Q.
Took a while to come from China... but was less than £10
Matt

Soft proofing is really for gamut checking and colour matching
The proofing stage will show if there are any clumping of colours that the target device cannot render.

It'll do little for brightness matching

FWIW, my MacBook Pro screen is so bright it's a real pain to get anything approaching the right brightness level, even when profiled & calibrated.
I have a LaCie 120 LCD which is pretty superb for print matching... but alas it's on a PC.

And as far as I know you can't proof in Elements, since soft proofing is a pro-thing However, Lightroom can, AFAIK.

Do remember that a display is transmissive (ie it is a light source), whereas print is reflective So there will always be differences in perceived brightness - unless you are using a reference lighting source for viewing the prints, and have matched the calibration of the monitor to the target luminance...

Matt