See this thread:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4086&highlight=provincial

See here:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4469&highlight=fashion+shoo...

(Are you trying to spread yourself across too many forums Ben??! :shock

The K10D is as good as I've seen
You can help it along a LOT by doing the following:
1) Switch to "Centre only AF"
2) Point the very centre to something with contrast that you want in focus (eyeballs are generally pretty good)
3) Half press and hold
4) Reframe and complete the press.

As you may have seen, my personal preference is to disable the "AF on halfpress" and use the rear AF button. Definite, definite plus point for low-level photog, especially if both you and the subject are standing in the same place - focus once, and then get on with the shooting

The internal flash won't be much use if the subject is more than about 3m away, and if you add a diffuser, that distance will be cut at least in half

My preference for this kind of event would be:
1) Wireless flash with AF360/AF540
2) Ambient light with very bright lens (like the 50mm f/1.4).
3) Use a tripod

For quick grab shots in an unknown place, option 1 is the easiest.
Option 2 is great for very small groups - especially as it captures the mood of the place. However, you have to stand back a long way for any serious group shots.
Option 3 could be a pain, but will get the group shots, the mood and allow you to use the kit lens. At a pinch you could use a monopod if you have a steady hand... but get the group to remain still.

Not really an easy answer....

Matt

Sigh...

Purple fringing isn't just down to the lens:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purple_fringing

You'll never get away from PF, even with the most expensive lenses. Like dust - just deal with it
EDIT: Like here: http://madcat.xmgfree.com/site/pf_removal.html

Matt

I've lost count of the number of times you've asked this There ain't no old K glass in this range at a "reasonable price".

Such wide angles were blindingly difficult to produce in 35mm format (read: EXPENSIVE). They're easier in the APS-C digital format... but only just...

16mm isn't "really wide". It's wider than 18mm, but not really wide.
Answer: SMC-DA 16-45mm

12mm is wide. Very wide. Difficult to make well. Answer: SMC-DA 12-24mm. Stonking lens....

There's also the SMC-DA 14mm/2.8

...but you won't like the prices
(and you're asking about the new star lenses :roll

You can't have your cake and eat it Pete
Matt

To be perfectly honest, Pete, from looking at your current images I don't think you'll notice a huge difference in "quality" going to the 16-50. Going from the 18-55 to the 16-45 you'll see a difference, definitely, but IMHO, the difference between the 16-45 and 16-50 won't be as great for most images. The difference in image quality will most likely be in areas that you've yet to discover in photography

Don't get the idea that as soon as you get a shiny new high-spec lens, that "Kaboom!", your images suddenly jump into another sphere - 'cause you'll be mighty disappointed

(Light is the main thing to master, not lenses )

As has been said, the main differences will be (as far as I've discerned from Ned Bunnell's images):
1) SDM
2) f2.8
3) Weather sealing
4) Bokeh

Matt

That probably explains the smell
(Not a Horlicks fan )
Matt

Looks better than nothing
Have fun
Matt

I've used the 7dayshop one - pretty impressive for the price.

In the end I snapped up a Manfrotto carbon fibre monopod (mail order return at www.ephotozineshop.com ) and a lovely Manfrotto swivel head with quick release plate (EDIT: MN484RC). Wasn't cheap, but it's been used a LOT!

You could attach the thread of the monopod straight to the camera, but you'll find a "fixed" leg a real pain! (Imagine trying to sit down without a hip joint :shock But tripod heads are readily available. I prefer the quick release type so there's no hanging around. There are also plenty of "swivel only" heads - Manfrotto do one too.

A monopod and the SMC-FA 80-320 makes a great pair
Matt

For an additional twist...
The luminance histogram isn't that helpful unless you've got the whitebalance right.

The RGB histograms are useful in the K10D to show whether you've clipped any of the channels, but ultimately you have to go by the output histogram in the RAW converter.

Apart from calibrating your monitor you also need pretty low-level ambient light (almost the level of lighting to snooze by ). Personally I've found there's almost nothing in the difference between LCD and PC (but then the PC is calibrated and my ambient lighting is low).

HTH!
Matt