Lots of lunches Ben

Interesting, interesting... don't tell me they're going to use the Canon 5D or 1Ds sensor??? (I say this absolutely tongue-in-cheek, lest my comment produce a hot debate on the APS-C vs FF yet again :roll
Matt

LOL!

There's another piece of knowledge too...
Once you've got the ovelay layer done you might want a little more "ooomph".
* Select the layer and run "Brightness/Contrast" on it.
* Push up the contrast a little and it will exaggerate the sharpening (somewhere around +10 say)

Matt

I use Picasa - mostly to create Albums and gift CDs

I haven't looked too much into the sharpening of Picasa, but you might find it's a High Pass Sharpen (which is often nicer than a USM). A quick outline in PSE:

* Flatten the image into one layer
* Duplicate the layer (you now have two copies)
* Run the Filter / Other / High Pass
* Pick a value that just shows the detail appearing (everything else will be grey)
* Click OK
* Desaturate the layer (Ctrl-Shift-U... I think!)
* Change the Layer's blend mode from "Normal" to "Overlay" (or "Soft Light" for a softer effect)
* Adjust the Layer opacity to suit.

(I like to use this before outputting a web image - a High Pass radius of something like 0.7 to 0.9 and Overlay mode works a treat!)

Interestingly, if you INVERT the grey layer it becomes a "High Pass Soften" which can be useful too!

HTH!
Matt

Thanks Lee

Did a Google... http://www.harpersphoto.co.uk/used.html
They have a 0.5x for 52mm, and a 0.42x for 49mm (under Misc). You'll probably have to ring them to see what the kit is about, but that's a start at least
The dreaded heebay has a number of converters at pretty high prices.

Matt

Lee,
I have a little lens attachment with a 49mm thread that (I think) is 0.42x. That makes a 28mm very wide. For a "noddy" piece of glass it's quite ok - loads of CA, but probably sharp enough for some things.

My favourite use (when I had a 28mm lens) was doing real "in-yer-face" portraits at wide angle.
e.g.
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/269025
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/268681
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/269501

Matt

Looks like you've done very well for £22
Nice one!
Matt

Some very expensive bits of Pentax 5P connectors and cable

For the AF-540 (or equiv) there's a connector on the left hand side (not very handy on that side TBH), which means you'll need the hotshoe adapter Fg and a curly cable.
Will cost anywhere up to £30 each second hand for those two bits.

For the AF-360 you'll need the "Off camera adapter F" that connects the cable and provides a hotshoe. Again, up to about £30.

That's if you can still find 'em!

Matt

Just dug this up:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=22988924

Looks like you'll need both a new SCA3702 and a newer Metz flash unit

Anyone want a Metz 50MZ5 with two NiMH batteries, charger, Lumiquest bounce, and SCA3702???? (PM me if you do. It's a monster of a flashgun!)

Matt

The wireless triggers were for studio flash

However, that said, you can use two (or more!) AF360/AF540 flashguns with one mounted on the camera - your K100D will trigger the others and operate them in full P-TTL (that's really cool )

If you're needing one urgently - it's always worth giving Chris at SRS Microsystems a call - his prices tend to be pretty excellent and the service is second to none
Just be sure to mention Pentax User (link: Flashguns for Pentax) - that's assuming you're in the UK!

Matt

Just checked out the original epz thread (here) and you mention that you have a Metz...

If you want to use the Metz in a known environment, then you can always use it in "M" or "A" mode (rather than TTL)...

To use the Flash "A" mode:
* Switch camera to "Av".
* Fix the camera ISO setting (not auto!)
* Set the camera to the same aperture as the flash (if it's not dedicated)
* Set the shutter speed as you want... and shoot

(You should be able to balance the flash-to-ambient ratio by lowering the shutter speed and bringing it nearer to the non-flash-metered value)

To use the Flash "M" mode:
* Switch camera to "M"
* Fix the camera ISO setting
* Start the flash at 1/4 power
* Set the shutter speed to 1/125
* Set the aperture to something like f/5.6
* Take a test shot...
- If too dark: either increase flash power or open up aperture (lower f-no)
- If too light: either decrease flash power or close aperture (higher f-no)

(NOTE: there's no adjustment in shutter speed for setting up the flash exposure )
When the test shot looks good, you can choose to lower the shutter speed to bring the ambient light back.

Sounds more complicated than it is And usually only takes three or four test shots once you understand the basic steps

HTH!
Matt