Wow!
Great lighting - as usual Ben! And nice PP too

You should've use a Tesla coil
Tried to take some shots - 500kV with 200,000 sparks per second, jumping about 4 foot. Some were reasonable - but I'd like to go again That's seriously shocking!

Matt

I use Artizen from SupportingComputers.net and it does an excellent job of handling movement In addition it's got the largest set of tone mapping operators of any software I've seen. The UI is a little clunky and slow, but it does produce rather nice results.

Coping with movement is something the HDR software is getting better at all the time.

That's not to say that I don't like using ND grads too

Matt

Not entirely
You see, if you put a filter between the lens and the holder it becomes a right pain to adjust the two! The ideal solution is having the polariser on the end of the filters - then the filters stay put and you can rotate the polariser.

I would add the following info:

* If you have the SMC-DA 12-24, you can just about get away with P-sized filters if you hack the front two filter slots. But then you can't have pol+ND.

* If you have the SMC-DA 16-45 then P-size are just fine. No problems

* The quality of the Cokin Z-pro is much better than the P sized. It's different material.

* The Cokin holders are really tacky. Before I purchased I read reports about the Z-pro holder slipping off etc, and so decided to go with the Lee holder, a 67mm ring, and a 77mm Wide Angle ring for the 12-24.

I would also say that the K10D has a better dynamic range than the *ist-D, and I find I whereas I was using all three on the *ist-D, I generally only use the Z121M when shooting RAW on the K10D... but that maybe just down to the style of image.


Don't think there's a "right" answer. But I reckon if you (a) will use them infrequently on 14mm, (b) use them on 16mm lenses up then the P-size are probably the better bet
(Cheaper and easier to carry around. And the polariser is MUCH cheaper )

...and now that I'm getting more into HDR imaging I'm finding a tripod and multiple RAW exposures is an even better way to go

Matt

Well, just to make a slight correction...

I rave about the "Lee Foundation" set. That's the holder. Superbly engineered and well worth the dosh.

I couldn't afford, or justify, the Lee filters. So I went with a set of Cokin Z-Pro ND grads (great price from Speedgraphic). I did get the Lee 3 filter holder too - and that's very nice indeed.

But, yes, they scratch Thankfully, though it hasn't affected the image quality yet. I did hear that the Lee filters are much tougher - so maybe they are worth the extra.

And the polarizer... aaaargh! I try to live without one, but every now and again I go back to the Cokin P with a Kood polarizer and that's not bad. But the ND grads are definitely not in the same league as the Z-Pro or Lees.


Just look after whatever you decide to get!!!
Matt

Speaking from experience John, I found that once I did worry about WB with the *ist-D and bought an Expodisc the colour in my images jumped to another level
Skin tones were then bang on every time and everything looked "right".
Matt

Ditto Tim's comment
Matt

Just to add:

SR is most effective over a short time period. Over time the small differences between the shake sensor and the sensor movement aggregate and produce a blurring of the image. That's why you don't use it for tripod shots (as a rule of thumb).

Also, you have to be careful not to be caught out by the SR. It takes a little while to get a "shake reading" - so wait until the little hand icon lights up in the bottom left corner of the viewfinder before actually pressing the shutter

Sensor cleaning - so far I've found that the in-camera dust removal does work, along with a "rocket blower" to remove the stubborn stuff. Personally I don't bother having it on start up - just do it when I change lenses (which is almost as often ). Be aware you shouldn't use normal fluids on the sensor otherwise you could damage its coating (Eclipse E2 fluid is apparently the one).


I have a few favourite custom functions - removing the "focus on half press of shutter" is one (and I use the rear AF button to focus). The rest depends on your shooting.


Definitely shoot RAW, in PEF format (it's smaller). Capture One LE is now K10D aware (and you may still be able to get free keycodes with Sandisk Extreme III cards). I prefer Silkypix - and its technology is included with the supplied Pentax converter (which is better than most supplied converters!!).

So I'd say - start with the Pentax one until you've outgrown it and then try the others to decide which fits your needs best. By then you should have some experience behind you too.

Matt

Just found this:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0706/07060101pentax50thdslr.asp

Shame it's not going for production... not sure about the black control on the silver top. But love the pentaprism shape!

Matt

Nearly forgot...

I also use a Pocket PC to connect via WiFi, and that has a res of 480x640. But it does do scaling.

Since people have been posting images I've given up checking for messages at the weekend on the Pocket PC (which is why I'm usually absent at the weekends).

My personal recommendation is to make images no more than 600 pixels in any direction (and less than 100k). If you want bigger, then use the "[url]" feature and link to another site so you don't have to look!

Matt

My setup:

"Thrash about" PC - 1280x1024
"Main PC" - 1600x1200 and 1280x1024 (dual screen)
Laptop - 1400x1050.

So, I don't think there's anything standard

(Elsewhere in the office we use 1024x768 upwards. So, 1280x1024 is certainly not standard, nor the minimum spec )
Matt