First S1a, meter, and lens












(it's cleaner than this now )

I have a pair of Pentax S1a bodies, complete with top mounted light meters, along with Super Tak 55/2 and a lovely SMC Takuma 50/1.4 that need a home and some TLC

To be honest, I have absolute no idea of prices - offers certainly considered. The oldest S1a was my father's, and the newer was mine that I saved up and bought some 30 years ago! Although there is a level of sentimental attachment, these do need servicing.

All this gear was left for years in my father's wardrobe or somesuch place. They were lost until he died, and I've only just recently got round to selling them

I'll upload photos, but here are some descriptions:

Pentax S1a S/N 541412
Casing is pretty clean, given its age, with no obvious dents or scratches.
The focus screen has some serious marks (IIRC my dad put some jeweller's rouge or something on the centre spot to make it clearer, but it looks a mess now!).
Internally there are some marks along the film transport strips, but the back looks clean.

Definitely needs servicing - the shutter often locks, and then eventually recover.

Top level meter (S/N 11201 has a ding around one side of the light entrance. Covering is mottled. Amazingly the PX625 battery measures in the green zone, but the L/Off/H switch has some contact issues and will need a clean.

This one has been in the Ever-Ready case which is in pretty good condition, though smells a little musty.

Super-Takumar 1:2/55
Not bad cosmetic condition. Focus ring is lovely and smooth, but the aperture blades are a tad slow - I suspect they'll need a clean. Small bits of dust, of course, but no obvious signs of any fungus.

Pentax S1a S/N 1656620
(This was mine) Reasonable condition, with a bit of ding just above the eye piece on the lower part of the pentaprism, and a black mark (or plating gone) at the peak of the pentaprism. It was like that when I bought it
The casing has peeled on the shutter side, and there is some ageing on the back.
Internally there are a few small marks on the outer silver film transport strips (far fewer than the other S1a).
This one has a shutter issue - the trailing shutter curtain doesn't complete, and the mirror does not come back. The mirror and focus screen were good... but I can't check.

The light meter (S/N 0038276) has a smooth paint finish, with a little wearing on the corners. The back plate (around the eyepiece) has obvious signs of age with paint missing.
The battery meters ok, and it all seems to work ok!
I have not checked the exposure of either meter though!!

Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 1:1.4/50
This is probably the gem of the bunch
Lovely and bright, only a couple of tiny bits of dust. Aperture blades are snappy and look clean. No signs of fungus.

Had a little play on the K5IIs with a reversing ring. Very nice!

Other bits
Probably not worth even mentioning! But...

Hoya HMC Zoom & Macro 35-75mm 1:4. Condition not bad at all, there's quite a bit of play in the focus ring, and rotating the zoom has a few stiffer points.
Aperture blades are not bad, and no obvious signs of anything apart from some dust. Has a case.

And the real runt of the family
Galaxy 200mm f/4.5 manual aperture. Has signs of fungus in the rear optics (that are half way along the barrel). With case. Only redeeming feature is a Pentax lens cap


Photos to follow...

Andy,

If you are discharging at 1/1 (ie full power) then that's not surprising! You probably found the flash head quite warm too. (My monster Metz 50MZ5 at guide number 70 even has a fan in the head to keep it cool!!!!)

Personally I use Eneloop/Hybrio NiMh batteries. That way they stay charged for a year (which is important when you don't use the flash that often).

I presume you were using full power for water droplets?
Don't

The lower the power rating, the faster the flash duration, and the quicker the recharge So, on the AF360FGZ, running at 1/32 will give the best 'freezing power' for motion - but of course you'll quite likely need to ramp up the ISO on the camera. Definitely use fully manual (i.e. M on flash, M on camera) for that kind of work!

Hope that helps!
Matt

Oh dear
That is heartbreaking!! (Especially image #2)

I would give it a go... but those aperture blades do not look happy at all.
If you don't get any interest, let me know - I can't bear to see it go to waste

Matt

I read this today - BBC News

Maybe not everyone's cup of tea, but I just love his portraits. It's the slightly quirky and funny ones that are great!

There's plenty more of his work on his website. The slightly mad Miriam Margolyes shot makes me laugh out loud!!

Somerset House is housing an exhibition until 7th Feb

Matt

BTW, I am amazed at the MX-1's output. My son absolutely loves it. He really likes the Q, but he's found the MX-1 outputs exactly what he visioned.

The shallow DOF and bokeh is really astounding for a compact. Also, I love the articulated LCD - great for street photography and shooting from the hip!

I usually carry a Q+8.5mm prime which is pretty excellent (and more lightweight than the MX-1 which is chunky)... but now I wish I had the MX-1 LOL!

Matt

...and for Nikon lenses you need a shim.
Interesting concept though!
Matt

Finding one could be difficult...

Here's a DIY one using the end of an extension tube! (and here on PUF)

That's not a bad idea!
Matt

If you used a M42 screw thread lens reversed then you just need a threaded adapter

Also, see this thread

Matt

Cut up an old rear K-mount cap and glue and old filter to it?

You'll need a way to stop the K mount unlocking. The body's lock uses a pin to stop the lens rotating, but other things could work too (elastic, Sugru etc).

Or you could butcher an old K mount camera for the mount and lock...

Matt