One of the Phase One videos showed Joe Cornish using an iPad to preview images for remote capture. He said he looks at the landscape upsidedown on the iPad to check if composition still looked good.

Would love to do the same on iPad/Flucard/K3. (Currently have one out of three :roll

Matt

It was this one alas now out of stock!

The thread was here.

Matt

Using TIFF is helpful in the following circumstances:

• when masking images. JPEG encoding can produce blocky edges when masking images with tools like Topaz Remask.

• when "pushing" an image. Though rarely a problem, I've had posterisation issues when doing more severe PP that was a result of JPEG.

But, for anything that's almost right out of the raw converter, JPEG is perfect, even for large format prints.

Matt

I gave some eBay links of ones that work.

Those that don't fit can be made to fit by carefully taking out the extra bit of plastic on the corners. Do it carefully as the plastic case is thin - so don't exert too much force! Might be able to show some images

Matt

Always keep the RAW.

If you were using RAW+, then I keep the camera's JPG too (putting it in a separate "CameraJPG" directory). The camera's JPG is a useful colour reference

Process the RAW in your favourite convertor (e.g. Lightroom).

If you can get the image to 99% then export straight from the converter into JPG. I have presets in LR for 1000 pixel web-ready images, pre sharpened. It makes life really easy for bulk!

If you need to do some serious post-production, then export to PSD or TIFF (16 bit if you really are going to hammer the image), work on the detailed file. Usually I'll keep just the PSD file with all its layers and tweaks. Then, resize and export for web from there.

HTH!
Matt

Interesting... just be aware that ShareMap.org stores your IP address when you make an edit
(Click on the clock = edit history)

Not a big issue, but thought users should know
Matt

Glad to help!
Matt

Just tried it on K5iis and this works:

1. Set custom menu C2.9 "One Push Bracketing"
2. Use Av mode (to fix the aperture)
3. Use fixed ISO
4. Engage Live View
5. Hit shutter

When using Live View with One-Push Bracketing the mirror stays up

(There's still a bit of a slap, but this is the shutter re-arming. I took the lens off and checked the mirror stayed up!)

Matt

Received in tip-top condition

Thank you!
Matt

PM'd