All Forum Comments
Comment by MattMatic posted on Aperture and my K20D at 30/04/2009 - 08:56
Click on the photo to get a larger image, then look at the camera on the wall of his spa!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Ned Bunnell Blog at 30/04/2009 - 06:53
1. Put camera on tripod
2. Get a decent test target
3. Set the lens to either maximum or minimum focus point
4. Autofocus and take a test shot
5. Examine at around 11x magnification on the LCD
6. Adjust the AF if needed
7. Go back to step 3 and repeat until satisfied.
HTH!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Checking front/back focussing at 29/04/2009 - 21:41
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Ned Bunnell Blog at 29/04/2009 - 20:47
Comment by MattMatic posted on K10D & Kit For Sale at 29/04/2009 - 17:07
Op-Ed thoughts by the sea
also (linked from the article):
Ten Recommended Cameras
As the article says:
...all of these cameras are truly excellent devices that will serve any thoughtful and hardworking photographer very, very well—very well indeed. Pick one and be done.
Will my photography improve by using the DA* lenses? I'll keep you posted
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Ned Bunnell Blog at 29/04/2009 - 14:45
I've been getting into the deeper side of ArgyllCMS and it seems to have resolved pretty well all the colour issues I was experiencing
(FWIW, ArgyllCMS is available for Windows, Linux, and Mac!)
There are two ways of creating a display calibration - either matrix/shaper or cLUT. The normal and easier method is matrix/shaper - but this yields pretty dire results if the display doesn't have a decent black point! If you calibrate with the cLUT method, and the applications you use are cLUT-aware (e.g. Silkypix, Photoshop, etc) then the difference is worth the effort. I now have the Tosh M200 tamed.
That said, the Dell RGB-LED display (not the White-LED) looks pretty awesome
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Any experience with Dell XPS 13 inch laptop displays? at 29/04/2009 - 11:09
You won't (generally) see any difference in GIMP (or Photoshop). These are colour managed applications.
The problem comes when you save an image for he web (or to email to someone) and they are not colour managed. Most applications assume the image is in sRGB. Consequently if you save an AdobeRGB image and they open it assuming it's sRGB the image will look very washed out and pale.
AdobeRGB can handle a wider range of colours compared to sRGB. I usually work in AdobeRGB and then convert to sRGB before saving for web or emailing
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on from adobeRGB to sRGB at 28/04/2009 - 22:09
I should know Thu/Fri how it works
(I'll report back!)
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on DA*50-135 and extension tubes at 28/04/2009 - 18:56
John - will let you know what happens!
It's interesting that with the DA17-70 the Tamron 70-200/2.8 looks a better match. However, the sheer weight and size of the beast (though not as much as the Sigma) really puts me off. Even the 50-135 is a touch on the big side - but discrete enough to get away with I reckon
Obviously the longer reach between 135 and 200 would be nice... but not at that cost in size! The Tamron with hood is certainly "bazooka" like for handheld!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on DA*50-135 and extension tubes at 28/04/2009 - 16:15


(And you may find there's an update to Aperture to handle the K20D PEF format anyway - there are always new RAW formats appearing!)
If you've shot in PEF, do not worry! Just download Adobe's stand alone DNG converter - this can take all your PEFs and convert them into DNG. Aperture should cope with the DNG files
...but maybe a Mac user can confirm!
Matt