Thanks for all the comments
Golfdiesel - yes, that's exactly as I'd expect, and exactly why I'm planning on jumping

And I was checking out the Xserve as well. Wow! That looks a nice piece of server and a lot easier than manually setting up a comparable Linux server.

I'm nearly sold....
Matt

Just thought I'd post this... not wishing to start a fight or anything

I am seriously, seriously considering switching to Mac for my image & music needs. It's like this - I work all day with Windows machines, writing code and firefighting Windows stuff, and when I get home I want to just play. I want my machine to just work - without all the updates/fixes/patches/hangs/crashes etc. Plus I am fed up with the Microsoft upgrade cash feed machine

I'm used to Linux (e.g. RedHat, Suse, Ubuntu) - but I haven't the time or energy to setup all I need. When I've had my sticky mits on a MacBook Pro I had almost no problem working my way around things and using Logic Studio (wow - what a breath of fresh air!). I just want to do stuff, not spend time setting the computer up!!

Also, I need a very compact machine - and the iMac just about fits the bill.

There are still legacy apps I need to run occasionally, and it seems that either CodeWeavers "CrossOver Mac" should run most of them (and Parallels may do the rest. I 'ain't runnin' BootCamp!)

At the moment I'm not sure about RAW conversion - Silkypix, or Lightroom (I should be able to 'cross-grade' either or both), or Aperture. I use Photoshop, InDesign, and Illustrator a fair bit as well - so a cross-grade to CS4 Mac wouldn't be too painful.

I did also find PixelMator for Mac - which looks interesting, especially for $59!

I'd appreciate some comments from you Mac users out there... and whether it's worth waiting for Snow Leopard before taking the plunge

Thanks all!
Matt

Ditto

My mistake

True... though I do have my AF set to only focus "on demand". You can program the custom options of all Pentax dSLRs to not focus on half-press of the shutter. You can then point at something contrasty / pre-focus using either the dedicated AF button on the back, or the OK button (on models that don't have the AF button).

I rarely miss anything because of focus issues And it also means you can manually focus with the DA lenses that have quick-shift focussing (e.g. the DA*50-135 is a dream to manually focus!)

Matt

Not necessarily The L70-200/2.8 didn't seem half as sharp as the DA*50-135 wide open In fact, if you check out the MTF charts for many Canon L series lenses the Pentax equivalent still tops them. (Plus the fact I much prefer the Pentax bokeh!)

Though the L series glass is full frame - and correspondingly heavier

Matt

Just an additional point on Stefan's idea - the remote flash is controlled by the pop-up flash (it's wireless with light, not with radio waves!). So if you block or diffuse the pop-up too much the remote may not fire.

Here is a check list:
1. Ensure the remote flash is in "Slave 1" mode (see the manual) - this is for P-TTL

2. Check the custom option for the camera and make sure the pop-up flash is in "Controller" mode, not Master. i.e. that the pop-up flash doesn't contribute to the exposure,

3. Ideally use fully manual. At least use "M" mode on the camera - fix the ISO to around 200 or 400 (depending on circumstances), set the aperture to taste (e.g. f/, and shutter speed to say 1/100s. Take a test shot and slow down the shutter speed to bring in the ambient lighting (if required).
3a. If the flash is on P-TTL then you don't have to worry too much, but do consider:
3b. Put the flash in "M" mode and set the power to 1/2. Take a test shot and adjust the power to get the exposure right (i.e. set to 1/4, 1/8 if too bright, or 1/1 if too dark. You can also move the flash closer or further away to effectively control the amount of light).

If you use manual mode then you can just fire away
If you've set everything up properly then the pop-up flash should not contribute at all (the only circumstances you'll see it are - as a tiny catchlight, or if the subject is waaaay too close!)

HTH!
Matt

Just a "heads-up" for anyone interested: LCE Group have a Z1 + 28-80 for the very cheap price of £49! Almost tempted, but can't stand the thought of film again

http://www.lcegroup.co.uk/SHdetails.asp?Item=8711

Matt

What happened to requiring in-body SR?
You could've bought an extra K20D for the price of the 50D... and you could still have pushed Pentax for some kind of remuneration or recompense

Stil, hope you're happy now
Matt

Faye, I'm still puzzled by your comments about it "blowing out". The pop-up flash when used in controller mode will fire on the preflash, and will issue a very small amount of light to communicate to the remote flash. When used for portraiture I get a very, very small catchlight in the eyes from the pop-up - but it certainly doesn't contribute enough to affect the exposure.

Perhaps you are using a very high ISO and/or very wide aperture?

I've not had any issues using the K10D & K20D in controller mode with remote AF360 & AF540 flashguns - whether in portraiture or macro setups.

That said, if you don't even want the catchlight, then there are third party extension leads that will keep the P-TTL nature. e.g. Nissin Pentax 1.5m lead and another 3m from Lastolite . (EDIT: Updated link )


I do wonder though if there's something you've missed (or misunderstood) about flash usage... have you got my flash e-book??

Matt