When I've modded in the past, I put the image on a hosting site (used to use PBase) with a link back to the original post and credit. Then I'd provide a link to that page (so you saw the image + credits + link).

I normally use common sense - if the poster is asking for C&C and it is apparent they can take the suggestions (and assuming I can improve it), then I go ahead. No one has complained yet in all my years of doing this, but if they did then I'd remove the mod immediately.

Now ePHOTOzine has the ability to provide modded images (though the original poster has to be an e2 member and enable the flag to allow mod updates) I haven't done quite so many as in years past...

Matt

Aha! www.picstop.co.uk are selling them at £1.99 delivered. Nice to know their available elsewhere as well!
Matt

I take a compact set of gear with me (in a Lowepro Nova 3) and take shots on the way. Often it drags them down a bit... but it certainly improves your ability to grab a good image when you see it

Very, very ocassionally I get myself out alone for some shots.

A bit of a balance really... but no doubt my family would say I spend too long taking shots

Matt

I used to use some generic 72mm close up filters. They were ok... a fair bit of CA was introduced, plus some distortion across the field. But they were light to carry and easy to use!

My intention was to replace the SMC-F 100/2.8 macro with the SMC-DA*50-135 + extension tubes. Actually, I probably still could - given that I hardly do any macro work at all. So, I have been recently experimenting with different combinations of lens and attachments

If you want better than 1:1 macro then by far the cheapest solution is to use the 50/1.4 lens reversed on a medium telephoto. Somewhere around the 100mm mark. You'll have to manually open the aperture on the 50mm (handy because it has an aperture ring ). You can try it by mounting the Sigma you have on the body, then carefully holding the 50mm back to front on the end of the Sigma. You'll need to go close... but the image quality can be astonishing!
Works very well on the SMC-DA*50-135 of course, but actually very acceptable on the SMC-DA 55-300.

Extension tubes are also extremely useful. There are several variants out there. The ones to avoid are ones without electrical contacts on the lens mounts (e.g. Pentax Auto, Pentax Manual, cheap ebay ones etc). Without the electrical contacts the body can't control the aperture. With the 50-135 it works just fine on the ones I have (Teleplus? ) but it doesn't like the body switched to AF - you have to manually switch to MF on the body.

Interestingly there are some Kenko tubes that have both electrical contacts AND the power-zoom contacts which work with SDM focus as well Only available in 21mm I think, but definitely worth looking out for.

If you really, really want to do macro then you can't beat a dedicated macro lens. But then, like me, you might find that lugging a macro lens for the odd shot isn't worth doing so it may be easier working with tubes or decent close up filters.

Hope that helps!
Matt

Another vote for the SMC-DA*50-135. Unbelievable lens - couldn't do without it now!
It's wonderful for flowers and landscapes. Close focus distance isn't that close (but closer than some in that zoom range), so you won't get macro shots without extension tubes (which have to be used in manual focus mode BTW), or close-up filters.

Another bonus is that it's weather sealed Have taken shots in the absolutely pouring rain and loved it!

Matt

Ah well, it was a thought. It's probably one of those things that I'd sort out in 2 seconds if I was there, or would've sorted out on the phone... but then it's all rather historical anyway.
All the best with your new gear
(Sorry I can't help with Nikon queries! )

Gwyn - again, apologies for taking this OT
Matt

If I'm not mistaken they have a fun thing going on with the newest digital hammerheads... and that's with Pentax and Nikon.
There is very limited functionality with the older Metz guns and dSLR bodies of any manufacturer. That's not surprising as the goal-posts changed a tad when the dSLRs came out and Metz had already designed, built, and manufactured their SCA adapters and kit. The Metz SCA adapter guide shows that only "A" and "M" modes are available for Nikon, Canon, and the same as for Pentax. Only really early dSLRs like the *ist-D, *ist-Ds, Fuji S1 & S2 can support the older Metz guns/hammerheads in TTL mode.

It's true that Nikon have a very nice remote control mechanism - all controlled from the body - but that requires only Nikon flash units as far as I'm aware.

But even with the older Metz guns there are ways of getting decent results out of _any_ dSLR After all, there have been plenty of skilled photographers before us that have used plain, boring manual flash all along

And as a BTW, the over-exposure you had with the flash in the studio was almost certainly because the body was in "Auto" ISO mode. Generally, it's better in the studio to switch everything to manual and be in complete control


...but that's all very off topic (Sorry! :blush
Matt

The biggest difference, for macro work, is the distance from lens-to-subject to achieve 1:1.
A 35mm macro isn't going to help if you want to take macro images of shy and timid insects! You'll probably want at least 100mm, if not longer.

Also, because of the angle of view, having a wide angle macro shot will lead to a different "look" compared to a telephoto macro.


As for portraiture - the 100mm Pentax macro lens is great. In fact, it's too good! "Brutally sharp" as one pro defined it Now having the SMC-DA*50-135 I use that for portraiture. The zoom range makes it more flexible, and the sharpness is comparable. It's certainly one lens that always goes with me...

...unfortunately for my SMC-F 100/2.8 that rarely sees action In fact, I'm agonising over selling it on to a home where it can work for its keep

There are, of course, several other ways of getting macro (and super-macro) performance. Perhaps if you let us know what you primarily want to accomplish and we can suggest all the options that make sense
(Some options are really very, very cheap indeed too!)

Matt

As far as I understand, the 10-17 fisheye, 16-50/2.8, and 50-135/2.8 were definitely designed by Pentax optical engineers. As part of the requirements for using the design Tokina are prevented from making PKA mount versions (so avoiding cross-competing).
It is also highly likely that the Pentax versions have Pentax-own coatings which are probably superior to the Tokina variants.

EDIT: Source article here:
http://forum.xitek.com/showthread.php?threadid=655516
(Babelfished.)


Where the 11-16mm came from, I don't know

Matt

...or they all arrived at separate similar conclusions about what works and what doesn't

After all, as far as I know, all dSLR users have human hands - and that tends to define the optimum design
Matt