That's definitely odd - because I've just tried everything I can think of to make it go wrong.... and every flash exposure comes out wonderfully! (Much better exposure compared to the K20D and prior).

I picked P mode, Auto ISO 100-2500 (Fast) and tried all kinds - both near and far - and I just cannot make it go wrong. (Generally it was picking ISO1600). Tried in Slow auto ISO as well - same great results.

I'm going to re-read your posts to make sure there's nothing I've missed.

Edit: Just tried in TAv mode - same thing. Perfect.



I take it you have the original focus screen?

Edit: Other questions:
* What lens are you using?
* Have you double checked your flash settings on the camera?
* Are you set to Matrix metering?

Matt

Ooh - nearly forgot! Check that you have the latest firmware for the K-7 (which is 1.03 I believe). Just hold down the MENU button while powering up the camera and it will show you.

If you're not on the latest, then I'd suggest updating that before proceeding further

Matt

Just a few thoughts before a full info (although excuse this very long reply! :lol :

* The K-7 isn't a point-n-shoot
* Flash isn't a "magic bullet" - it can't cover all lighting situations automatically. A lot is left to the photographer (but it isn't hard once you know how!!)
* I suspect there is a discrepancy between what you are expecting to happen and what you have actually programmed

For example - this information may help enormously. Flash has limits. First, it has a limit to its full power. If you set ISO100, f/32 and try and light something a few meters away it will be underexposed - especially with the pop-up. It just doesn't have infinite lighting power.

Secondly, flash has a limit to its minimum power! This is probably what's happening in your case (but I will check later). You have made an incorrect assumption about which Auto ISO setting to use - you said you set it to "fast" because you want to freeze the action. It's definitely NOT what you want to do! The reason is this: the camera makes a decision about ISO setting largely before using the flash - based on the ambient light. As you asked for "fast" the camera will veer towards the higher ISO sensitivities. Because the flash has a minimum power, and probably because the subject is close, the flash will not be able to 'cut off' early enough. (That's why when you reduce the aperture - to f/32 - less light is let through and your exposure is then correct.)

Flash works within a certain range of distances for any given ISO sensitivity. This range is shown on the AF360/AF540, but unfortunately not on the popup (though there is information in the manual... but that may be intimidating at first).

I quickly tested the K-7 with the pop-up last night. The results are, actually, very impressive! But, I had the ISO set to "slow" In general, I want the lowest ISO (because it has the lowest noise). The flash will do the "freezing" of motion for me My exposures were pretty much bang-on every time (but then I have a feel for the max & min distances of flash anyway.)


Some of the skill that is left up to the photographer is how to balance the ambient light with the flash lighting. I've covered much of that in my flash e-book - and it's a fairly big subject to discuss here.


I'll double check the flash behaviour of the K-7 further (to see how it differs from the *ist-D, K10D, and K20D that I've had) and report back...

Matt

Rodcy - you need to go through the process of getting a binary chunk of data off the original Spyder installation CD.
On the Mac, the menu "Extra" has an option "Enable Spyder 2 Colorimeter..."
(It's there on Windows as well)

Once you have that run you should be able to access the Spyder 2.
(Or you could read the FAQ under ArgyllCMS )
Matt

Anne,
I've just upgraded to the K-7... so I'll check it out with the AF360 & AF540 and see if I can advise in the next few days
Matt

I looked into the cheap grips. There appear to be two types. The closest match to the Pentax has metal location pins and six screws around the tripod mount into the camera.

There is a less-close copy that has only two screws around the tripod mount and plastic lugs.

As far as I know neither have weather sealing.

HTH!
Matt

K-7, grip and battery safely received

Ooooh! I'm like a kid in a sweet shop

Thanks very much Huw!

My thinking exactly Richard.

Apologies to everyone else for pipping you to the K7

There'll be a K20D+grip, SMC-F 100mm/f2.8 macro, and an SMC-FA 80-320 coming up on classified in the next couple of days now!

Thanks Greytop

Matt

Some have said that the PC socket is the most protected (based on a video comment from one of the Pentax guys - but this was only inferred from the fact that he said the PC socket was protected, but he didn't specifically mention a lack of protection on the hotshoe )

However, it appears that both use thyristor triggering technology (which causes the lockups with slaves that take too much trigger current) - and they have 300V minimum handling.

I would have said that when you measure the trigger voltage that if it's less than 50V you'll be fine (usual disclaimers apply!!). Anything more than that and you're likely to get a tingle or a belt off it if you touch it anyway

For the faint of heart there's always the Weinsafe sync cubes

Matt

Now that I use Silkypix for RAW conversion I find I do less sharpening in PS

However, when I do, it's normally like this:
* Duplicate layer
* Smart Sharpen
* Change layer blend mode to Luminosity
* Adjust opacity to taste
* (Optionally) create a layer mask and paint black/white to localise.

HTH
Matt