I'm not sure it sounds rather odd... alas, I don't have PSE8

If you want to email a PEF file I can try it on PS-CS2 and some other RAW converters.

Matt

I'm not sure, but it may be that Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) with PSE 8 is not reading the preset information correctly. Pentax Photo Browser obviously will read the settings and pre-apply them to the RAW.

Someone once said there was an issue with DNG files in ACR like this... which RAW format are you using? PEF or DNG?

Also - check whether there are any upgrades on ACR from Adobe

Matt

Glad it's sorted (itself) out
Matt

PS some Czechs would say it was Krackenosh (sp?) that did it... or if you mean the mountains in the north then maybe the high sulphur content of the air? (Have the trees on the tops finally recovered from the previous years of acid rain?)

Question: Does the lens actually focus while it is "purrrring"? (ie does the focus ring move)

Question: Does this happen with both the 18-55 and the 50-200? (If it only happens on one lens then maybe you have a focus clutch problem. You can check the lens: hold the lens so you are looking at the mount end, with the red dot at 12o'clock. At about 7o'clock the focus screw slot should be clearly visible, and you should be able to freely rotate this with a small screwdriver - you'll see the focus ring move.)

Question: Have you tried different focus points (ie switch the focus selector from auto-all-points, to centre-point). Maybe you have an issue with just part of the AF system (maybe the camera thinks it still needs to get a lock).

Question: When you use MF, while you half press the shutter, does the green hexagon appear in the viewfinder indicating focus lock? (This test will show whether the electronics used for the focus detection are working correctly)



You can disable the Auto-focus-on-half-press in the custom menu (or switch to MF). That should at least let you take photos, albeit in MF.

Matt

There's always a use for the smudge & blur tools
Matt

It depends what you paint on the layer

If you pick the target colour (ie where you want to end up), then you will only darken those pixels that are lighter than that value. Everything darker gets left alone. So, you'd pick a shade of green where you want to finish at.

You can find that a mixture of cloning (or just copy/paste) an area that is good, and using an appropriate blend mode can do the job with a bit of 'randomness' (that simple painting may not provide).

The trouble is, each situation is slightly different, and it's all up to your ingenuity!

(I often end up using the 'Blend If' features... just love that facility. For me it's a 'must have' feature that I usually combine with blend modes and cloning and painting! )

Matt

Hint: That's one good use for the "Darken" layer blend mode
Matt

Just a thought:

(Do this with the lens off)

Do check that when you switch from MF to AF-S or AF-C that the focus screw pin retracts and pulls out. i.e. when on MF, the focus screw is retracted (flush with the body); when on AF-x, the focus screw protrudes from the lens mount.

The screw pin itself is on a spring loaded mechanism, and sometimes this doesn't engage correctly with the lens (it's so the AF screw can rotate and 'find' the correct orientation with the lens).

It's possible that's where the noise is coming from...

Try pressing the "AF" button on the back of the K20D. If it makes the same noise when you press just the AF button then it's a focus issue
(Normally the camera will auto focus when you half-press the shutter, but this can be adjusted in the custom menus)

Matt

By far the easiest approach:

1. Create a new, blank, layer in the layers palette

2. In the layers palette, change the layer's blend mode from Normal to Color

3. Pick a soft brush and paint on the layer to change the colour underneath. If you Alt-click you change to the colour picker so you quickly sample the colour nearby.

You shouldn't have to worry about complex selections.
Additionally, because the work is done on a layer you can toggle the visibility of the layer (click on the eye on the left of the layer in the layers palette) - it gives you a quick before/after view.

HTH!!
Matt

When using these charts I find it easier to do the following:
1. Place the chart on the wall (so you read it sideways)
2. Put the camera, level on a tripod
3. Angle the camera at 45 degrees to the wall.

Always move the focus ring to an extremity first, the AF and take the shot. Consistency is the name of the game.

In fact, this is similar to the Pentax service manual

Finally, I have found that the chart can be too 'clinical'. I always found a chart adjustment followed by a real life test (and further tweak) is always best (normally using a portrait).

HTH,

Matt