That'd be the Konica-Minolta (formerley QMS) Magicolor 2300W.

I can recommend the Epson Stylus Photo R800. It prints up to borderless A4, CD/DVD Media, 160Gram card, and roll stock for banners.

If you intend doing a reasonable amount of photo printing, make sure the printer you choose has separate ink cartridges for each colour to keep the cost per print to a minimum.

Now this is a REAL man's lens. Not a zoom, but . . . beautiful.

I am very pleased with my Sigma 135-400 APO (non DG version). It's light and easy to use on the K10D.

16-45mm v 18-55mm . . . search the forum, the question has been asked, and answered, many times before. If you have any doubts after tah, ask yourself why the 16-45mm might cost 3 times more than the 18-55mm.

Answered in this thread https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3934&start=30

. . . ist it really finished? . . . I don't think so. The final moments definitely indicated that Sam might be still alive . . .

Liam,

The K10D doesn't have programmed 'modes', it's a 'proper' camera.

In simple terms, you use 2 copies of the same image on different layers. You make the top copy B&W, then you use whatever the tool is called in your favourite editing software to gradually make more parts of the top image transparent, revealing the coloured part from the image below.

Maybe the broken connector was the cause of the 'battery depleted' problem in the first place. If that's the case, and you didn't break it yourself, then Pentax ought to repair it free of charge under warranty (2 years in EU).

Well done for fixing it anyway.

Regards,

Is the locking mechanism physically broken, or has it just been moved to its open position?

If the latter, with the cable in place, simply push it back down with a small non-metallic tool.

If it's broken, is it possible for you to secure it with a small (tiny) tie-wrap, rather than glue.

If you really do have to use glue, the hot-melt variety is probably best, if you can apply a small enough amount. To achieve this, I suggest shaving a tiny amount from a glue stick, place it in-situ, then melt it with a small tipped 60w soldering iron.

Problem is, if the locking mechanism is physically broken, the cable might not make proper electrical connection as it is the locking mechanism which provides the force necessary to make a good connection. Simply glueing the cable in place just to stop it falling out might not be sufficient, hence the tie-wrap suggestion, which will apply at least some pressure to close the connector.

Failing the tie-wrap idea, a small length of insulated wire (something like insulated 5 amp fuse wire - you can probably source it from a model or craft shop), twisted around the connector using snipe-nosed pliers might suffice, then glue that in place using the soldering iron method described above.

If all that fails, I suggest you send it for profesional repair.