All Forum Comments
Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D Inside Building. at 03/11/2007 - 16:34
The 'P' (Programmed exposure) setting, is programmable. How is yours set on the K10D (high speed, DOF, ? ? ?) ? In my opinion, you should have been using aperture priority and a reasonably fast lens. What lens were you using.
Anyway, why turn a sophisticated and highly capable DSLR into a point & shoot by using P mode?
Anyway, why turn a sophisticated and highly capable DSLR into a point & shoot by using P mode?
Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D Inside Building. at 02/11/2007 - 21:01
Quote:
Thanks Mannesty,
Is it not possible to get similar when shoting on film then ?
I take it the sky would be over exposed and the shadows too dark ?
Regards
PaulM
I'm no film expert, but . . . I believe that film can capture a higher dynamic range than DSLR's can anyway. You can of course reproduce the bracketed shots with film, but what would be the point if you can't use parts of each frame to produce a natural looking final result.Thanks Mannesty,
Is it not possible to get similar when shoting on film then ?
I take it the sky would be over exposed and the shadows too dark ?
Regards
PaulM
Imagine a scene where you have a blue sky, white clouds, pure white virgin snow on the ground and a black cat in the doorway of a coal cellar.
With film and digital, you can take a number of frames to correctly expose each part of the scene (the sky, snow, cat etc). Parts of each digital image can be used to produce a viewable final result. I've no idea what use the film shots would be, unless you were to scan them, then treat them the same as for digital.
Have a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging for a more detailed explanation.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Old England Fall at 02/11/2007 - 20:45
HDR - High Dynamic Range
This simply means that within the composition, the shadows are very dark and the highlights are very bright. To expose each end of the range correctly, a number of shots are taken, then bits from each make up the final image.
PhaseOne's CaptureOne version 4 Beta 2 is available and has some HDR capability. Otherwise, checkout Artizen.
This simply means that within the composition, the shadows are very dark and the highlights are very bright. To expose each end of the range correctly, a number of shots are taken, then bits from each make up the final image.
PhaseOne's CaptureOne version 4 Beta 2 is available and has some HDR capability. Otherwise, checkout Artizen.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Old England Fall at 01/11/2007 - 13:54
Quote:
Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
I have dust removal switched on and I've noticed it works. I was constantly bugged by dust on my *istD which remained until manually removed. However, on the few occasions I've noticed specs in pictures on the K10D, they have vanished on their own. I have yet to have to clean it manually.
Secondly, fears about undue wear from shaking are completely misplaced and show a total lack of understanding about how things are made.
If something is manufactured to vibrate you can bet that it has been tested to destruction by vibrating it a whole lot more than it will ever be subjected to in normal use.
Manufacturers do this because a reputation of unreliable products is a killer and takes a long time to shake off (no pun intended).
I wonder if these fearful, timid people push their cars everywhere? Internal combustion engines vibrate an awful lot too. Ever seen a washing machine on spin cycle? That's a cracker.
Sure things wear out but just how often is a camera thrown away because it was simply worn out? Obsolescence is a much nearer threat. How often do you change your camera?
Lighten up. Look after it but use it!
Buzzes (dust removal) and beeps (focussing) are all turned off on my camera because when I manage to get close enough to a timid subject, I certainly don't want the thing to be frightened off by the noise of my camera being turned on. I'm quite happy to clean the sensor . . . when it needs it.Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
I have dust removal switched on and I've noticed it works. I was constantly bugged by dust on my *istD which remained until manually removed. However, on the few occasions I've noticed specs in pictures on the K10D, they have vanished on their own. I have yet to have to clean it manually.
Secondly, fears about undue wear from shaking are completely misplaced and show a total lack of understanding about how things are made.
If something is manufactured to vibrate you can bet that it has been tested to destruction by vibrating it a whole lot more than it will ever be subjected to in normal use.
Manufacturers do this because a reputation of unreliable products is a killer and takes a long time to shake off (no pun intended).
I wonder if these fearful, timid people push their cars everywhere? Internal combustion engines vibrate an awful lot too. Ever seen a washing machine on spin cycle? That's a cracker.
Sure things wear out but just how often is a camera thrown away because it was simply worn out? Obsolescence is a much nearer threat. How often do you change your camera?
Lighten up. Look after it but use it!
Comment by Mannesty posted on Too shake or not - that is the question at 24/10/2007 - 17:55
Quote:
I use a Rocket Blower (rarely) on my lenses. I prefer the Arctic Butterfly for the sensor because it physically removes the dust from the camera body. The blower may only move it to somewhere else within the mirror box, only to get stuck to the sensor again on a future occasion.amoringello wrote:
but much better and consistent results are obtained simply from using a RocketBlower or similar item to blow the dust free. (almost a year and have not had to use wet or other method to physically touch the sensor area... air alone has been enough)
Ditto. Rocket blower for me.but much better and consistent results are obtained simply from using a RocketBlower or similar item to blow the dust free. (almost a year and have not had to use wet or other method to physically touch the sensor area... air alone has been enough)
Comment by Mannesty posted on Too shake or not - that is the question at 23/10/2007 - 20:20
Switch it off. It's not that useful anyway. I use an Arctic Butterfly.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Too shake or not - that is the question at 23/10/2007 - 18:32
The Sigma 135-400mm APO DG is a very good lens for about the kind of money you are wanting to spend. It's a bit faster than the 170-500mm too so will better suit your sports requirement.
Long and fast lenses of the kind you see on the touchline at premier football matches are not cheap. Some cost several thousand pounds and on a budget of £400'ish, the Sigma I mentioned above is about your best option.
I have a 135-600mm 1:6.7 lens which is ideally suited to sports photography . . . if you have the muscles (4Kg + the body) and the room to wield it. If your are seated on the terraces, forget it. It'd be good for motorsport though.
Long and fast lenses of the kind you see on the touchline at premier football matches are not cheap. Some cost several thousand pounds and on a budget of £400'ish, the Sigma I mentioned above is about your best option.
I have a 135-600mm 1:6.7 lens which is ideally suited to sports photography . . . if you have the muscles (4Kg + the body) and the room to wield it. If your are seated on the terraces, forget it. It'd be good for motorsport though.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Best longish lens for under £400 at 23/10/2007 - 20:15
According to http://www.pentax.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html there is no update available for your camera.
A safe rule of thumb is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I personally doubt that the K100D V1.02 firmware will work in a K100D Super. What is more likely is that K100D Super V1.00 firmware and K100D V1.02 firmware could be identical, so you don't need it.
A safe rule of thumb is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I personally doubt that the K100D V1.02 firmware will work in a K100D Super. What is more likely is that K100D Super V1.00 firmware and K100D V1.02 firmware could be identical, so you don't need it.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Help with firmware update at 22/10/2007 - 18:24
Clarky, I reckon you are spending much too much time around bugs if you can recognise if one is smiling or not.
I think it's a very good photo. Good DOF in the right places and excellent OOF background. It's almost like the fly posed for you. Well done.
I think it's a very good photo. Good DOF in the right places and excellent OOF background. It's almost like the fly posed for you. Well done.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Another bug pic at 21/01/2008 - 22:59
Why not, if that's what one feels like doing. I am not a snob photographer that looks down their nose at point & shoot operators. I will try anything.
Without any concrete evidence of the 'failed' images, we are all just stabbing in the dark but trying to help nevertheless.
I have no prejudice against point and shoot cameras, I use one (Fuji F810), a lot. I just wonder, with the sophistication of the K10D, why anybody would choose to use it essentially as a P&S camera unless they were a complete novice (which obviously you are not) and just wanted to bang off a few test pics to get started.