With reference to the shots you've posted:-

ND Grads (one or more) can help solve the problem if, and only if, the brighter part of the image composition is to one or more edge(s) (top, bottom, right, left). The bright portion of your images is not at one or more edges.

These particular images have a very high dynamic range, and as such would benefit from processing using an HDR dedicated piece of software like Artizen.

Phase One's Capture One V4 (beta) has some HDR capabilities too, as does Sylkipix I believe.

Artizen, for instance requires at least 2 images, one exposed for the highlights, and one exposed for the shadows. It then 'blends' them and requires some use of tone mapping to achieve an acceptible result.

The image on the home page of the above link demonstrates exactly, why you might need to use it (bright outside tunnel, dark inside).

You can also achieve something similar by combining 2 images within Photoshop etc.

The truth is, CCD and CMOS sensors have some way to go before thay can faithfully capture the extreme's of dynamic range that we often encounter.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the link George, I've ben looking for one of these at a reasonable price. The full sized softbox is cheaper too.

Regards,

Any of them can be used 'anywhere'. The effect produced by each of them will be different, of course. I'd say just experiment with them and use the ones that produce the effect that you want.

You should expect to get reasonably close to your subject with the cloth diffusers.

The omni-bounce (the white one) consists of a rectangular plastic shape which fits over the flash head of your flash unit. It all but replaces the need to 'bounce' light from another surface as it 'diffuses' the light emitting from the flash unit. This diffused light is intended to render softer shadows. You'll still get shadows, they'll just be less harsh.

You will have seen pro's use these in news footage, and they are pointed directly at their subject, not bounced from another surface.

The omni-bounce reduces the light reaching the subject by up to 2 stops, as does bouncing flash from a ceiling. To do both, would effectively reduce the light reaching the subject by 3-4 stops, less than ideal (unless you have a very powerful flash head).

That said, I think Sto-fen recommend tilting an omni-bounce equipped flash at 45 degrees to the subject (indoors) so that the subject receives some direct light, and some bounced light. Outdoors where there is no bouncable (if that's a real word) surface, it should be aimed directly at the subject.

The gold coloured one simply produces a 'warmer' light. They also sell a gree'ish one for a cooler lighting effect.

For clarity, perhaps you could post some images of the bits you have received, or supply a link for viewing the items/images on the web.

Or reading the manual it seems . . . we've all done it . . . but it is a valuable resource even though some info may be well disguised.

So, is that a digital tweak (hack the firmware) or a mechanical tweak (adjust the focussing mirror)?

Whichever, does it void the warranty?

Brian,

I think you need to set up your test chart more accurately. In all cases, your chart appears to be turned in a clockwise direction from the vertical. The centre 'focussing' line must be exactly horizontal for these tests to produce any really meaningful results.

Regards,

There are two 35mm lenses scheduled in the current Pentax Lens Roadmap. One is a DA 35mm 1:2.8 Macro, the other is a DA 35mm SDM lens.

I now use only Sanyo eneloop batteries in my *istD & flashes (AF540FGZ & 2 x AF360FGZ). They seem to be a little shorter than normal NiMH cells and hence don't put so much strain on the battery door latches. The biggest advantage of these batteries is that they stay charged when not in use. Gone are the days when I attach the flash and can't take the pic because the flash batteries are dead.

Buy a Sandisk Extreme III SD card and you'll get a free licence key to download and use PhaseOne's CaptureOne LE (V3.7.7). You'll also benefit from one free version upgrade to V4 which is at Beta 2 release for free trial right now.

Alternatively, I like Adobe's Lightroom.