With the AF500FTZ on the camera, set the Slave mode on the AF360FGZ to 2 (dumb slave). It works fine either in A or manual.

Welcome.

Both of your lenses are perfectly good to start with. If your images are not sharp, find out why, and fix it.

The first thing I would do (and did) would be to use only the centre spot for focussing, at least then you know where you are focussing. Turn the dial on the right hand clockwise to centre spot.

Then, although I prefer not to use it, you might just set the P mode to normal in custom settings, and shoot a number of test images in P mode.

Then take a close look at them and determine if they are sharp or not. For these tests, you have a tripod, use it. Turn SR off for tripod mounted camera.

Your local library will help with reading material. Get anything you can and be inspired by the photo's and how they were obtained.

Whatever you do, don't waste large sums of money on more equipment until you can get the best out of what you have.

Good luck & regards,

If you follow this advice . . . make sure your 'P' mode is set appropriately in the custom settings. It can be set to normal, high speed, dof, or MTF.

I've never used any of them so can't advise further. I would probably use Av and set a wide aperture. P-TTL on the flash should be fine, just beware of the loss in output of 1.5 - 2 stops if you use a diffuser (recommended).

Straight flash, even from hot-shoe mounted gun, gives very harsh shadows which are most noticeable when you switch the camera to portrait orientation. When in landscape (flash above lens), the shadows are behind and below the subject. In portrait (camera turned through 90 degrees) you'll get shadows to the left or right, depending on which way you prefer to turn the camera.

You could of course use wireless flash and have an assistant hold the flash above the camera.

For a wide angle zoom, choose the Sigma 10-20mm or the Pentax DA 12-24mm if you want your straight lines straight('ish) as it has a rectilinear design. or the Pentax DA 10-17mm if you like the fisheye look (curvilinear) to your images.

Many here prefer the Sigma, primarily due to cost I think.

I actually haven't checked mine but if they are real leather they'll go in the bin. Leather has long been known for harbouring fungal spores and I certainly don't want my lenses affected by fungal infestation.

Don't hesitate. As long as the lenses are in good condition, both are held in high regard.

For comparison, an FA 50mm 1:1.4 would cost you about £150 new. The F 70-210mm is a stonking lens and benefits from an ED element (not widely publicised).

You'll not be disappointed with either lens.

Well I wonder where that came from ? ? ?

If the first two are of the same flower, the colours in the second one are much better. Which is more accurate?

Which HDR 'tool' do you use/prefer Tim?

Substitute,
Posts like this are the reason I don't visit other forums.
There was no hint of aggression in my post, unlike yours.
I'm somewhat more educated now, thanks to Kim C. I note you haven't tried to explain your TLA (that's Three Letter Acronym).
Serious input? I have some, give up on your fruitless quest for a used one. There is not much chance of you finding the lens you are after second hand as it has only been available for a very short time. Anybody selling a used one could arguably justify asking more than the new price.
Finally, I have lots of time to waste, but no more here except to say:-

Chris at www.srsmicrosystems.co.uk has them in stock and if you're lucky, you might get free postage.

Regards,