Now repeat the test at f1.7. Ah, but of course, you can't open the kit lens that far.

Seriously, 2 shots does not a test make.

If you were to repeat your test at all apertures common to both lenses, I'm sure you'd see a difference at the extremes of aperture.

Then you'd apreciate the additional low light capabilities of the 50/1.7 I think.

To say I was amazed would be a gross understatement. What a revolutionary piece of kit for those with mobility issues. The balance function is awesome.

I want one, and I don't even need one . . . yet! ! !

I can only apologize once more, to you and the other members of the forum who disagree with my responses. I'm very sorry to have upset you.

Thanks for the education.

Kind regards and good luck with your camera,

Deleted by the author . . .

Could you leave it a week, then revisit this post? When you do, try and read it with just one breath, because that's how you've written it. There is not one full stop in the whole of the text, yet you've put two at the end ? ? ?

If you'd used capital letters to begin each sentence it might have helped.

Most of us here go to a lot of trouble to help new Pentax users to become better Pentax users. It helps when those seeking advice take the trouble to write carefully, at least carefully enough that we don't spend more time than is necessary to understand the problem.

Thanks & regards,

Exactly so, yes.

This simply means that the effective aperture at the long end is smaller than when the lens is at the short end. In other words, the aperture is not constant across the whole of the zoom range. When zoomed in (long) although the aperture ring may be set to the minimum of f4, the actual aperture is f5.6. There are usually indications on the lens to this effect. A little dot or line usually.

If you set your camera to Av and set the widest aperture with the zoom at the short end of its range, then zoom in (towards the long end), you'll notice the aperture setting on the camera will change.

In practical terms, this is only really an issue when using manual shutter and aperture settings. If you set the exposure correctly for the short end, and then zoom in, your image will be under-exposed.

A zoom lens expressed as a single f number is known as a constant aperture zoom lens and the aperture remains as set for the entire zoom range.

EG: Pentax DA* 16-50mm 1:2.8

Cicada's are great subjects for macro photography, not least because they are difficult to find. You can hear 'em . . . 'til you get close.

OK, the pic. The leaf at front left appears to have moved during exposure. Was it windy?

The cicada is not actually in focus. A golden rule (which can be broken) is to get the eye(s) in focus.

Your plane of focus seems to be a bit short, cutting across its right front leg. The wings too are out of focus.

You might have got a better shot if you'd used a diffused flash to illuminate it, and freeze the action of the wind (if it was windy). You could then have used a smaller aperture to increase the depth of field a little.

Hope that helps.

Your lens has a maximum aperture of f2 (1:2) and f1.2 lens is labelled 1:1.2

Perfect. Maybe a tad more perfect if you'd captured the whole reflection.

I love it. Thanks for sharing it.