You are quite wrong. I have BG's on my K20D, K-5, & K-5 II. None has a battery in the camera, only in the grip. It works perfectly and it saves having to remove the grip to change the camera battery.

I adopted this method long ago having noticed that the camera always seemed to misbehave when one battery became depleted. It seemed to me that the camera only chose which battery to use at switch on and wouldn't seemlessly swap battery use with power on.

Only the ability to print large, decent resolution images, which was the whole point of the original post.

An extract from EasyJet's support pages :-

And Ryanair :-

Back to the original question, and I have a question.

Why don't you know which is the best FF camera already?

Reason for the question:-

Some semi-pros and pros may need a full frame DSLR. They know what they want to achieve and they'll have a good idea of which is best for their needs (and it won't be Pentax unless they are prepared to take the quantum leap to a 645D).

I don't think many amateurs can claim to need one, but many amateurs will want one, and some will have sufficient disposable cash to satisfy their want.

If you fall into the type of user that needs one, you will have a purpose in mind and you'll know that some cameras are better for certain applications than others, so, ... what do you intend to do with it?

Or, are you one of those users who doesn't actually need one, but you want one, and don't really know why except that it's in vogue to want one?

If the latter, save your money, keep using what you have.

If the former, this is the wrong place to ask the question because Pentax don't yet produce a full frame body.

PS: I too have looked at your Flickr site and if those images are representative of your work, I don't think you need a FF camera.

Can you provide a link to this offer, Cheapest I can find is £579.00.

I'm 65 next birthday. A man I met for the first time at my first ever camera club meet, died less than two weeks later aged 59. I've no idea about his eating or exercise regime, but it sure made me think about mine.

An FA 135/2.8 and my biggest regret, an FA 100mm/2.8 Macro . . . twice, and still regretted it the second time.

If camera shake is to blame the whole shot will be out of focus.

Was this hand held or tripod and what shutter speed were you using.?

Focus stacking software compensates for the change in image size as you move the rack/camera/lens forward. It's not a problem.

The procedure you describe is probably the most widely used. Keeping the camera/lens still and changing the focus point will also work, and the image size may still change (because some lenses actually change their focal length slightly when you re-focus at different points in the scene) and the software will still compensate, but . . . you don't have as much fine control using the focus ring on the lens when compared with the minute steps that can be achieved with certain focusing rails or linear stages.

If you have loads of disposable income, have a look at the StackShot.

I would think that the AF adjustment might need changing with the seasons.
Temperature, humidity, age, wear, will probably all affect the mechanical alignment of the lens and camera focusing mechanisms.

Thing is, does it make enough difference to warrant regular adjustment?

I've done mine only once per lens & body combination, but the next rainy day when I have nothing better to do, I might redo the AF alignment for my lenses and bodies.