I've read somewhere that fungus is a big problem in humid climates. When not in use it might be a good idea to put your vulnerable gear inside ziplock bags with silica gel.

Don't get too paranoid though, fungus might only be an issue to people living there and storing their gear inappropriately.

Nobody used them then?

Does anybody have any experience of these, either AA or AAA?

How do they compare to the standard Sanyo Eneloops.

In an attempt to get this thread slightly back on track, I have a question.

Why would you choose a tablet device to store your images?

I'm currently looking at a Nexus 7" mark 2 with 32Gb memory. I've not found any tablet yet that has more. For me, shooting raw, that's less than 2 x 16Gb cards worth of images, assuming other stuff I need to be on the tablet uses some of that 32Gb.

I can understand making a second copy of images to a tablet for a short period of time, but not permanent storage.

Why oh why do people waste their money on supposed UV filters?

Most glass absorbs all but the longest wavelength UV light (UV-A). What are our lenses made from? Yes, glass.

Ever wondered why you don't get sunburnt while driving your car? UV light is what causes sunburn, and UV light doesn't pass through the glass. Your reactolite lenses in your glasses don't 'react' either, for the same reason.

The glass, adhesive resins, and coatings of camera lenses, even old ones, are very effective at preventing most UV light from reaching the film, and DSLR sensors are less sensitive to UV anyway.

Why bother, there must be something more useful to spend money on.

Lovely images Simon. @ snapychappy: That lion is a tiger Same result if you got into it's pen though, you're lunch.

Sekonic L358 for me. I rarely use it for outside daylight work, but always indoors with flash.

Your smc D-FA 645 55mm F2.8 lens employs the "Quick-Shift" focus mechanism. I'm not sure if the 1mm 'delay' is normal, but it is normal for the focus ring to continue turning after the min & max focus limits have been reached.

It uses some kind of slipping clutch mechanism to achieve this. Essentially, it allows you to manually adjust the focus of an AF lens having first used AF to focus initially, and without having to switch from AF to MF.

The focusing speed and accuracy in general use and in particular in low light situations makes the K-5 II my camera of choice with my K-5 being relegated to backup status.

The differences in IQ between the K-5 II and the K-5 IIs are not enough to justify my spending the extra money on the 's' variant.

I will not be buying a K-3 because its low light/high ISO performance, particularly noise, is inferior (IMHO) to any of the K-5 series and frankly, I wasn't expecting the K-3 to be better anyway. More densely packed pixels has always bought increased low light/high ISO noise in the past and always will until a quantum leap is made in sensor design and materials used. An improvement may come with the grafene based sensor in a few years . . . maybe.

Checkout my Flickr account to see some of the winter nighttime banger racing images and you'll see why.

You read the manual :::

Wish I'd thought of that.