Which would mean the K-5 Super (or whatever) is on its way.

I suppose I'm always looking at covering in case of failure, so if every lens had motors in we would need a spare lens just in case. If motors are in the camera body, well, we have a back up camera body so no problem.

It would add bulk and would entail redesign of existing very fine lenses, such as the Limited series, which would cost money.

I can personally live very happily with existing lenses as they are, with new lenses offering inbuilt motors where desired. The 18-135mm has a superb DC motor system and I'd be very pleased to see more of those.

Only the generalised comment that we can avoid most problems by simply using Pentax-made accessories.

That's not to say we shouldn't experiment with other things, but carefully and at our own risk. One thing is sure, I would never use anything that required forcing or bodging to work.

The 18-55mm is a great lens, capable of excellent results.

Sometimes, reading comments on the internet, we could be given the impression that images would be almost unviewable, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Activate the camera's abilioty to use the aperture ring and then everything will need to be set manually. It will be possible to use it, with stop down metering.

I have known many sales people, and been one for many years, and I can assure you that sales people are indeed human beings who can be very much personalities.

Chris has always been a gentleman to deal with and his staff have been equally friendly and helpful.

When things go wrong, good companies want to do their best to put things right and I'm sure Chris's response must engender confidence.

Inappropriate comments removed.

I think that robbiec's comment reveals the difference between the metering of the two cameras. The K20D is set slightly differently, and if you recall many complained that +EV adjustment was necessary to make the images lighter.

The K-5 delivers slightly brighter exposure, so presumably Pentax adapted it slightly in response. As a consequence, whereas I used the meter of the K20D as set I ise -0.3EV on the K-5.

If you find the K-5 colder, then use daylight or Cloudy as your WB settings and that should solve that.

Thanks, Frogfish, food for thought.

The Q does have sensor-shift SR, but the 5.5x crop factor means a 300mm lens would be a huge 1650mm-equivalent. I'm not sure I'd be using a lens anywhere near that long.

I envisaged more of a 100mm lens, giving a 550mm-equivalent. Do you think that would be more manageable?