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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
Quote:
Wouldn't the 12-24 be a good companion to the 24-90?
I thought that as well, but in practice found that quite often I wanted to use focal lengths either side of 24mm, which meant a lot of lens changing.

The 16-45mm is perfect for me as a consequence. It also means I don't have a lens without Quick Shift in regular use. This feature is so useful I don't like it when it's not there!

The 17-70mm would probably be better still, but it will have to wait for a while. Too many things need money spending on them just now...

Comment by johnriley posted on which lens would YOU choose? at 12/02/2010 - 08:18

johnriley
Cheers albert, if you need any more info just ask!

Comment by johnriley posted on A bit of advice required. (help!!) at 11/02/2010 - 15:50

johnriley
Try searching this forum as there are plenty of posts on this very subject.

In summary, manual focus lenses remain manual focus, but those with a "A" on the aperture ring will work normally with the K20D as reagrds metering. Eralier lenses (K series and M series) which have no electronic contacts on their mounts can be used for manual exposure measurement, but are less convenient in use.

All AF lenses will be fine.

Comment by johnriley posted on A bit of advice required. (help!!) at 11/02/2010 - 15:19

johnriley
It's easier still to readjust slightly using a manual tweak to the focus point. Assuming DA lenses are being used of course.

Comment by johnriley posted on camera set-up at 11/02/2010 - 12:48

johnriley
I don't know about ImageRescue, but similar programs will pull an amazing amount of stuff off a card, even if it has been formatted. It's a useful tip to format and try again if a rescue isn't working. This can do the trick and enable images to be restored.

Comment by johnriley posted on Image Rescue4 at 11/02/2010 - 12:46

johnriley
With film cameras, the only limitation to B setting is that it takes power to hold open the shutter, so electronic shutters are limited to what the battery will do. 8 - 10 hours is usually the limit.

Mechanical shutters such as on the MX you can leave open for ever if you want to.

With DSLRs there will be a limit because of the battery, but also the sensor may well overheat. I've never tested it, but I suspect a camera will shut down if the sensor exceeds a safe temperature.

Comment by johnriley posted on How long is too long?? (bulb exposures on K20D) at 11/02/2010 - 10:59

johnriley
The P30T will accept a standard cable release.

Comment by johnriley posted on shutter cable release at 11/02/2010 - 08:12

johnriley
No doubt someone with more IT knowledge than muself can answer this - if we tell everyone what our system is made up of will it make it easier for someone to attack that system? :

Comment by johnriley posted on Whatt spec systems are you running! at 10/02/2010 - 16:23

johnriley
All museums in the UK are free. Only extra exhibitions are charged for.

Comment by johnriley posted on Found this online and thought it was unfair at 10/02/2010 - 16:21

johnriley
Quote:
You are of course correct, John, but is it not true that pixels in the image (ppi) translate to dots (dpi) in the printer?
No again! If each pixel was represented by one dot of ink that would be a pretty lousy image! When I print, the colour of 300 pixels is made up of 2880 dots of ink. This results in a rather better print!

Comment by johnriley posted on Converting RAW files to make exposure value changes at high resolution at 10/02/2010 - 16:20

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