All Forum Comments
Comment by Horst posted on ...killed the cat! at 02/03/2013 - 13:22
Quote:
Buy a heavy one that can stand in water or one leg on the ground and two up a wall or tree. Get a UNI-LOC. the fat end of the legs is at the bottom and they really are waterproof. The centre leg can hold a camera at either end so you can shoot at ground level. They are like a demented octopus until you get used to them and then you juust know they are THE BEST.
Sorry fellas but all the modern ones with their multi position centre legs just followed Benbo and the same people that made the Benbo then went on to make the UNI-LOC.
CHEERS Vic.
Spot on, the sturdier the better. The worst is a light flimsy tripod. it wobbles in the wind or nearby vibrations without noticing, but your picture misses some of the sharpness.Buy a heavy one that can stand in water or one leg on the ground and two up a wall or tree. Get a UNI-LOC. the fat end of the legs is at the bottom and they really are waterproof. The centre leg can hold a camera at either end so you can shoot at ground level. They are like a demented octopus until you get used to them and then you juust know they are THE BEST.
Sorry fellas but all the modern ones with their multi position centre legs just followed Benbo and the same people that made the Benbo then went on to make the UNI-LOC.
CHEERS Vic.
I have to Manfrottos, real heavy and very reliable.
The centre collumn lets you adjust the camera hight well and you can keep the tripod legs fully spread.
Better no tripod at all then a flimsy one.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on Manfrotto or Hama tripods? at 02/03/2013 - 13:12
Quote:
Hi I just received a Russian Jupiter 50mm f2.8 lens.
My Mistake, It is not a Jupiter, but an Industar lens.Hi I just received a Russian Jupiter 50mm f2.8 lens.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on My Latest aquisition - Jupiter 50mm f2.8 at 27/02/2013 - 08:32
Screwdriver wrote:
It was not very hard, even in the earlier days, to make a Tessat type lens which was very sharp. Maybe a bit to sharp. Leitz however designed the Elmar to have that special boukey and even so it was sharp, It had the special "duft" . Meaning it didn't kill you with the brutal sharpness.
The same applied to the Summar and later lenses including Summicrons and the Nocton f1.
I owned and still own a few of this lenses. The closest to this type of performance was and still is my SMC A 50mm f1.4 on Film.
These lenses lost out when in the 70's the fashion was to just compare lenses with the resolution charts etc. The actual picture quality did not seem to matter as much anymore. The most desirable attribute seem to be "edge sharpness". In my opinion, this is, with exceptions one of the lower priorities. Do you really need the super edge resolution in a portrait, landscape or even sports photography?
I still have some photos at home, done with the Elmar 50mm which I could not duplicate with the modern lenses. Where I have to say, some of my Pentax lenses come close.
Regards, Horst
Quote:
The German manufacturers, with their usual Teutonic efficiency, went with what you can measure, mainly resolution, lines per mm.[/
This is not quite so, Leitz made the lenses mainly to get a so called 3 dimensional effect. The Elmar 3.5 and the Summar f2 are special examples of this,The German manufacturers, with their usual Teutonic efficiency, went with what you can measure, mainly resolution, lines per mm.[/
It was not very hard, even in the earlier days, to make a Tessat type lens which was very sharp. Maybe a bit to sharp. Leitz however designed the Elmar to have that special boukey and even so it was sharp, It had the special "duft" . Meaning it didn't kill you with the brutal sharpness.
The same applied to the Summar and later lenses including Summicrons and the Nocton f1.
I owned and still own a few of this lenses. The closest to this type of performance was and still is my SMC A 50mm f1.4 on Film.
These lenses lost out when in the 70's the fashion was to just compare lenses with the resolution charts etc. The actual picture quality did not seem to matter as much anymore. The most desirable attribute seem to be "edge sharpness". In my opinion, this is, with exceptions one of the lower priorities. Do you really need the super edge resolution in a portrait, landscape or even sports photography?
I still have some photos at home, done with the Elmar 50mm which I could not duplicate with the modern lenses. Where I have to say, some of my Pentax lenses come close.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on FA 31 Limited - why is it so good? at 23/02/2013 - 08:26
Hi I just received a Russian Jupiter 50mm f2.8 lens.
I bought it on Ebay for $29.- with free postage.
It fits with the screw to bayonet adaptor on to my K5. It is fully manual. This enables me to set the camera to either Av or Tv and I don’t need the green button.
I made a few pictures this afternoon in my backyard. The f-stop was set to 5.6 and I let the camera set the speed. It manually focused easy with the help of the in-focus indicator of the camera.
Attached are some images . The Third one uncropped of a part of my Cumquat tree , the second is greatly cropped of the same image and the first is of some high voltage power lines about 500m away.
This lens is superbly sharp. A typical Tessar design. It is about the same as the Colour-Scopar I had on my Voightlander Vitomatic IIa I had in the sixties.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on My Latest aquisition - Jupiter 50mm f2.8 at 22/02/2013 - 12:05
Just hang on for a while, I believe there is a video being released : How to eat with knife and fork..
Regards, Horst
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on New Lens box opening instruction video! at 14/02/2013 - 10:45
Quote:
so do we really need to continually argue about F/F v APSC
I don't think anyone is really arguing. It is more like a discussion.so do we really need to continually argue about F/F v APSC
After all this is what forums are about.
On can learn a lot by reading the comments of other participants.
Also each topic is separate. therefore when participating in one specific topic, it shows people are interested in it, either to
ask a question , give an opinion or share ones knowledge or learn from others.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on Merits of APS sensor at 05/02/2013 - 09:43
Well, I suppose you would even be better off, I you had only a 1/2 size
APS sensor. This way only the extreme centre of the lens would be used.
If you made it even smaller, you probably could get away with a single meniscus lens.
On the other hand if you only had a full frame sensor, you could always crop it later to the APC equivalent size and you wouldn't have to worry about the edges when using FF lenses either.
Kind regards, Horst
APS sensor. This way only the extreme centre of the lens would be used.
If you made it even smaller, you probably could get away with a single meniscus lens.
On the other hand if you only had a full frame sensor, you could always crop it later to the APC equivalent size and you wouldn't have to worry about the edges when using FF lenses either.
Kind regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on Merits of APS sensor at 04/02/2013 - 11:49
I used a Winder (also used is as a grip) on my Super A to make it a bit larger.
When I bought my K5 I thought I also need a grip, and bought one.
After fitting it to the camera, I tried it, and then took it off again and never used it since. The K5 is just the right size and shape for my size hands.
Maybe one day when I spend a longer time in the Bush without being able to charge my batteries, I fit it, to be able to use it with AA batteries.
I alway carry lots of them with me in the Bush, for the Radio and torches etc.
Regards, Horst
When I bought my K5 I thought I also need a grip, and bought one.
After fitting it to the camera, I tried it, and then took it off again and never used it since. The K5 is just the right size and shape for my size hands.
Maybe one day when I spend a longer time in the Bush without being able to charge my batteries, I fit it, to be able to use it with AA batteries.
I alway carry lots of them with me in the Bush, for the Radio and torches etc.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on Grips. Essential or not? at 03/02/2013 - 13:13
Quote:
Take as an example an F-stop of f13. The corresponding "aperture value" will read 7.4.
Why? Av is formally defined as 2 x log(base2) of the aperture. So 2 x ln(13)/ln(2) is ~7.40.
Why log(base2)? Because each whole number increase represents a doubling, i.e. one stop.
Thanks for that. it took me a while, but I think I understand it now.Take as an example an F-stop of f13. The corresponding "aperture value" will read 7.4.
Why? Av is formally defined as 2 x log(base2) of the aperture. So 2 x ln(13)/ln(2) is ~7.40.
Why log(base2)? Because each whole number increase represents a doubling, i.e. one stop.
Regards, Horst
Comment by Horst posted on What is the difference between F- stop and Aperture Value at 03/02/2013 - 12:40
It leaves my K5 for dead when I compare my monochrome images.
I saw them at a demonstration from the local Leica agents.
Until I win the Lotto and can afford a M9, I'll take only colour.
Regards, Horst