I've got a tatty and dented top plate with a reasonable flash shoe still attached to it - if you want it then send me a PM and we'll sort something out.

As far as I know no such database exists unfortunately. There was a discussion about MX serial numbers on Photo.net a while ago but nothing was decided upon apart from the fact that Pentax serial numbers are indecipherable! I think it's safe to say that the first two digits don't represent a year, however, others in the chain may.

If you're happy to settle for approximate years of manufacture then Bojidar's site is the Bible of all things K-mount.

It's the OM-PZ8, here's a link to one on Amazon: clicky

I found the shoe to be an extremely tight fit when the flash was new, it had to go on and off around 30-40 times before it started sliding nicely into position, during that time I'd often find I hadn't pushed it fully onto the shoe so if that's your problem you certainly won't be the first!

Good luck with the cleaning. When you're getting the old foam seals out don't wear your best clothes (certainly nothing white!) as the little bits of corroded foam go everywhere and stick to everything. Make sure you have good stocks of cotton buds, tooth picks and lighter fluid and remember that patience is the key. Other than that it's all pretty straightforward so post some pictures when you've done.

Don't shush! We like to hear how people get on with their equipment!

It sounds like you could probably achieve good results with your existing Tamron 90 - a teleconverter would allow you to effectively increase the focal length while still allowing you to focus to 1:1 (although image quality will suffer slightly), extension tubes would allow for magnifications greater than 1:1 (but are really only suitable for tripod work). Of course, using tubes and converters isn't as convenient as having a dedicated 200mm Macro lens but it will be a lot cheaper!

Good luck with the Raynox and let us know how you get on.

If your camera has gone to "sleep" (normally about 30 seconds / minute after the last time a button was pressed) then the wireless remote can't wake it up. This is one area where the wired remote has an advantage. Just before you take your shot, wake the camera by lightly brushing the shutter button (you'll see the LCD display on the shoulder come alive once more), step back, take your shot before it dozes off again.

Your English is easily good enough to understand so don't worry.

It may help people to give you suggestions if they knew what you were trying to achieve. I understand that you want a high magnification ratio, but are you taking pictures of insects (for example) or coins or flowers or what? Each type of macro photography would be better suited to different equipment; for instance with insects or wildlife you need a long working distance so a long lens (like the Sigma 180 or Pentax 200) is best. With static objects (like coins or flowers) then you can use a shorter focal length (maybe 50mm) and extension tubes to get higher magnification - all on a tripod of course!

So what sort of photography is it you want to do?

That sounds bad. If the flash is still under warranty then I'd look at getting it replaced, if not then I think you may have to swallow the loss and buy a replacement.

All electrical equipment is prone to failure, the 360 is generally regarded as one of the better flash guns from a reliability point of view, however, there will always be the odd unit that will fail nonetheless.

As you say, with a wedding coming up then the timing couldn't be worse - I think that's just down to Sod's Law really.

If you can't get a replacement flash in time then make sure you pack your fastest lenses and remember that the built-in flash will do a suprisingly good job of providing fill lighting when you're outdoors. Not as good as the 360, but with a bit of luck from the weather probably good enough that nobody will notice when the shots are ready for viewing.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

I stand corrected...