On the K200D you have to change "Custom Settings" 22 "Catch in Focus" On

Greg

Hi Karl,

Yes I've set up the camera so that if the AF switch is on then it will only trip when there is a focus lock confirmation, but with most of my long lenses there is insufficient light for the camera to get a focus lock, green hex, and that's were I have a problem

Greg
K200D

Hi,
Much as I hate to admit it to myself my eyesight has seen better days. As most of my lenses are MF and I'm more into in wildlife, bird and macro photography, this has become a problem.

To help me focus I have the Pentax 1.2x and the Seagull 2x eyepieces and three different split focus screens, it can take me an age to find focus and then I'm not always spot on. When it comes to long lenses focus confirmation does not always help.

How accurate and effective is the live view screen on a K7 when used for focusing, I'm aware that the image can be zoomed but does it show a crisp picture on the LCD which enables one to judge the focus and what happens in sunlight, the LCD gets washed out.

Greg

I hear you but she is an absolute beginner and still has to get her her head around f numbers being the wrong way round etc. When I've had to learn something new I've always wanted my instructor to treat me like an absolute idiot and walk me through a process slowly and step by step.

Maybe I should not carry this need over to other people.

Greg

Nothing like a good discussion to clear the rubbish from one's mind.
Here is the amended version. Thanks for the help.
Greg

NOTES ON USING “K” and “M” TYPE MANUAL LENSES ON THE PENTAX K200D


CAMERA SET-UP FOR “K” and “M” LENSES
Before you can use the K200D with manual lenses there are a number of changes you must make to the cameras default set-up. This applies to all the different types of manual lenses and once done correctly does not require changing.

Go to:-
MENU - CUSTOM SETTINGS -

Menu item 14, Green button in Manual, select “2” Tv Shift.
Now when you press the Green button whilst in M mode the camera will shut down the aperture to the pre-selected setting and take a reading and set the shutter speed to suit the selected aperture.

Menu item 22, Catch-in focus, select “2” On, enabled.
Now if the AF/MF switch on the front of the camera is set to AF with a manual lens attached to the camera it will only allow the shutter to trip if it can confirm that the subject is in focus. This has disadvantages under low light conditions and can be overridden by switching back to the MF setting on the front of camera.

Menu item 23, Using aperture ring, select “2” Permitted

Save these settings and close the menu.


TAKING THE PICTURE
Remember this procedure is only for “K” and “M” type lenses. we can discuss the other lens types when you get them.

Attach the lens to the camera.

Set the program dial on the camera to M Mode.

Switch on Shake Reduction, if you want to use it.

Switch on the camera.

If you have Shake Reduction turned on it will display a screen asking for the focal length of the attached manual lens, enter the focal length of the lens.

Set the ISO.

Set the white balance to suit the current conditions.

Pre-set the aperture ring to a setting which will give you the depth of field you require, the diaphragm will not close down.

Focus roughly on the subject.

Half press the shutter button to activate the meter.

Press the Green button, there will be a sound as the camera shuts down the diaphragm, the viewfinder will darken and it will now select the appropriate shutter speed, check the shutter speed selected and if it’s too slow open up the lens and repress the green button until you arrive at a suitable speed for the current conditions.

Take the photo.

Inspect the histogram and if there is clipping correct the exposure up or down by adjusting the shutter speed using the E-Dial or by changing the f stop on the lens.

DO NOT PRESS THE GREEN BUTTON AGAIN, you will delete the adjustments you have just made.

Take the photo again and see if the exposure is correct..


NOTES
Here are some links to sites which taught me all I know about the subject, remember that they are not always discussing the K200D, the main differences between the various model cameras is in the use of the E dial (on the back of the K200D, green button and Av button.

http://www.robertsdonovan.com/?p=1181

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=24921509

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/59272-shooting-manu...

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/60081-usage-green-b...

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-articles/32-can-i-use-k-m-lenses-...

I made that statement because the only straight K mount that I have is my K 1000mm f8 lens and it has no provision for moving the diaphragm on the mount, is this an exception?

In order to keep it simple I have concentrated on "M" type lenses, when she get more, from me, I will expand on the "A" and M42 lenses.

That is a very good link and is I have listed it.

Thanks for all the feedback,

Greg

Here are my notes, very long.

NOTES ON USING “M” TYPE MANUAL LENSES ON THE PENTAX K200D
VERY BASIC MODE.


LENS TYPE EXPLANATION
There are basically five types of manual lenses used on Pentax K200D cameras.

Namely
PENTAX LENSES
M42 Screw Mount –
The aperture can only be changed by turning the aperture ring.

M42 Screw Mount – Auto –
This has a thin pin sticking out of the back of the lens mount which when pressed opens and closes the aperture and a switch which reads :Auto” Manual” You can only move this “Auto” switch when the lens is attached to the camera as there is a second small pin which must be depressed by the mounting flange.

Pentax K Mount –
The aperture can only be changed by turning the aperture ring.

Pentax K Mount – M –
type lens. This has a flat lever sticking out of the back of the lens mount which opens and closes the aperture when moved backwards and forwards.

Pentax K Mount – A –
type lens. This looks like a “M” type lens and also has a flat lever sticking out of the back of the lens mount which opens and closes the aperture when moved backwards and forwards but to the left of the smallest aperture setting there is an “A” setting which can be selected by pressing the small button adjacent to the “A” mark and turning the aperture ring to the “A” position, it then locks into position, if you do not select “A” then the lens behaves like a “M” mount lens except for the difference noted below.

The difference between an “A” and “M” type lens is in the amount that the aperture opens and closes in relation to the setting levers movement and this affects the automatic Shutter Speed setting of the camera when metering using the green button. The camera can read the preset F Stop on “A” lens when set to “A” and will display the “f “ stop reading on the top LCD panel and in the view finder, all the other types of manual lenses will only show a – (dash)

The “A” mount is the most desirable type of manual lens to buy as apart from auto focus it is fully automatic and the exposure evaluation is fairly accurate.

Each type of lens requires a slightly different procedure in setting the exposure values.



THIRD PARTY K MOUNT LENSES, e.g. Sigma
Their mount type can be identified by comparing their physical characteristics with the above descriptions and checking for the “A” position on the aperture ring.

This explanation will only cover the use of M type lenses and A type lenses with the “A” setting disabled, if you ever get your hands on a M42 or “A” lens we can go into further detail. The main difference between the two is in the use of the aperture ring and the metering




CAMERA SET-UP
Before you can use the K200D with manual lenses there are a number of changes you must make to the cameras default set-up. This applies to all the different types of manual lenses and once done correctly does not require changing.

Go to:-
MENU - CUSTOM SETTINGS -

Menu item 14, Green button in Manual, select “2” Tv Shift.
Now when you press the Green button the camera shuts down the aperture to the setting you have pre-selected on the lens and takes a light reading through the lens and then sets the shutter speed to suit the lens opening that it finds.

Menu item 22, Catch-in focus, select “2” On, enabled.
Now if the AF/MF switch on the front of the camera is set to AF with a manual lens attached the camera it will only allow the shutter to trip if it can confirm that the subject is in focus. This has disadvantages under low light conditions and can be overridden by switching back to the MF setting on the front of camera.

Menu item 23, Using aperture ring, select “2” Permitted

Save these settings and close the menu.


TAKING THE PICTURE
Remember this procedure is only for “M” type lenses. we can discuss the other types when you get them.

Select the lens you want to use and if it’s an “A” type take it off the “A” setting by pressing the small button on the lens before turning the aperture ring away from “A” by doing this you have effectively changed the lens back to an “M” type.

Attach the lens to the camera.

Set the program dial on the camera to M Mode.

Switch on Shake Reduction if you want to use it.

Switch on the camera.

If you have Shake Reduction turned on it will display a screen asking for the focal length of the attached manual lens, enter the focal length of the lens.

Set the ISO.

Set the white balance to suit the current conditions.

Pre-set the aperture ring to a setting which will give you the depth of field you require, the diaphragm will not close down.
Focus roughly on the subject.

Half press the shutter button to activate the meter.

Press Green button there will be a sound as the camera shuts the diaphragm down, the viewfinder will darken and it will now select the appropriate shutter speed, check the shutter speed selected and if it’s too slow open up the lens and repress the green button until you arrive at a suitable speed for the current conditions.

Focus on the subject., if there is enough light the green hexagonal focus confirmation light in the viewfinder will light up and the camera will give the focus confirmation beep. Do not think that the small red square in the viewfinder is the focus confirmation indicator, this only indicate the point that the camera is using to check focus, you must see the green hexagonal.

If you have selected “Shake Reduction SR” Check that the “SR” green hand is showing in the viewfinder.

Take the photo.

Inspect the histogram and if there is clipping correct the exposure up or down by adjusting the shutter speed using the E-Dial or by changing the f stop.

DO NOT PRESS THE GREEN BUTTON AGAIN, you will delete the adjustments you have just made.

Take the photo again and see if the exposure is correct..




NOTES
Here are some links to sites which taught me all I know about the subject, remember that the are not always discussing the K200D, the main differences between the various model cameras is in the use of the E dial (on the back of the K200D, green button and Av button.

http://www.robertsdonovan.com/?p=1181

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=24921509

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/59272-shooting-manu...

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/60081-usage-green-b...


http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-articles/32-can-i-use-k-m-lenses-...

We can cover the other types of lenses when you get them.

Have fun, do not Skype me if you have problems.

Hi,

I've posted off three type M lenses to my daughter in Hertford, and have drawn up a set of instructions for her on how to use the manual focus lenses with her K200D.

Now, not being an expert I would like to have someone review these notes for accuracy and clarity before I give her the wrong information.

Is anyone prepared to read them and do any corrections before I send them off.

Regards
Greg

Thanks, will do so.

Greg

Well having got home and examined the lenses and checked the PF lens database I'm more than thrilled with what was in the parcel, they are all in perfect condition, no fungus, scratches, cleaning marks or sticky diaphragms and the finish is only slightly worn.

I now see why you say I got a bargain, and to think I was only interested in the 100mm Macro and hardly looked at the others.

The very narrow focus rubber ring on the 40mm lens is loose, should one just glue it in place?

Regards
Greg