The best set you will get is the Asahi Pentax M42 one in a leather case that quite often appears on Ebay. Precision made, won't get stuck, accepts all old glass with M42 mounts. The KA mount, Jessops set with the 'A' series contacts also works but you need to scrape off a bit of the anodising on each one for the camera to gain control of the aperture - and even then it doesn't report the fact to the viewfinder or the top panel (you only discover that it has worked by looking at on a shot you have taken!! Best method of the lot has to be bellows with a 50mm, 100mm or 135mm lens on the front. This gives you a multi-variable "extension tube" courtesy of the bellows itself. If you have a set that accepts a cable release (e.g. a Pentax one) you can focus at full aperture and then stop the lens down via the cable control on the front mount or, like me, use a preset lens that you can control exactly as you choose.

You have summed up the problem quite well. I too have thought about it but, so far, I haven't been able to justify the price to myself.

The only problem I find with Kaspersky is anything to do with money. Its Safe Browser is a slow, cumbersome pain in the parts which sometimes won't let you into a site you've used for years. It must be a known problem because there is a feature that will let you turn it off for websites you specify.

In which case, you probably won't be able to insert the card anyway
(sorry Vic. You set yourself up for that one!)

Jonathan-Mac said, "The best 135mm lens I've tried is the RMC Tokina f/2.8 - sharp, contrasty and great colour too."

This IS the Tokina RMC f2.8, which I have always found a bit lacking in punch. Could be my copy since the reviews consistently praise it.

I did this simply for my own purposes but I remembered that someone asked, a while back, "What's all this business about lenses producing nice/poor/ so-so colour. Surely, colour is colour?" Well, it isn't, as these show. All are untouched out of the K3 to discover which is "the best" (if such can be said!) The crop is the same and all were f8

First off Pentax DA 55-300zoom at 135



Tokina



Pentax Takumar



Russian Jupiter 11a



Meyer Optik



And the tiny thing that made it all possible (Jupiter)



All will take a lot of PP but the modern zoom is the sharpest and far too red. The best overall representation is from the Jupiter
Each lens represents the colours in its own style and the result will be as much personal taste as reality.

I recall a thread somewhere that was advocating removing the card and putting it into a card reader rather than using the USB plug on the side of the camera. The writer said it was easier (Eh? getting one's finger behind the thing to pull it out is a well known problem, given the bad design of the door). I always plug the USB cable in. It's designed that way. Why should someone want to continally pull the card out? Once my cards are full, then I pull them out and I shove them directly into the computer if ever the need arises. I also keep the original packets and store the cards as they were first packed by the makers.

You can't beat a rocket blower. I have a lengthy discipline of blast everything before taking a lens off, blast the new lens and its rear cap, then place the cap on top of it. Remove the old one. Blast it and its rear cap - put the cap on. Hold the camera facing down rock it from left to right while blowing, rock it front to back and through both diagonals, blasting all the way. Put the new lens on quickly. It's overkill but it keeps things clean.

I had it all lined up to rise directly behind Coventry Cathedral with compass bearings, precise times, the lot. It was covered with low cloud! Grumpy, grumpy !
Here is a web site with future ones listed link

The discussion about higher ISOs, particularly when you want to force a higher shutter speed, has been very interesting and has encouraged me to play with it when, before the debate, I would never have considered it at all.
The little grebe is just lovely.