From these images the lens is back focussing. It is marginal, but that is all the error that is needed to make images look soft with a 420mm focal length, especially at wide apertures. I think you need a positive adjustment on the fine AF Adjustment menu, try '+3' at first, then do the tests again and keep repeating until the point of intended focus is sharpest.

However, there is a general lack of sharpness here, even in the area that is in focus. These images should be razor sharp and they are not. If your camera / lens are within warranty I would get them checked out. Here are three example images shot with the DA*300 and 1.4 TC, I think you will be able to see the sharpness of this combination, especially so as these are all from a significant distance from the subjects; all are with the K-3:










Regards
David

Just a couple more points on this thread, prompted by Carl's post and your reply John:

- Carl mentioned difficulty in getting sharp images with a TC. I also have experienced this until getting the DA*300 and new 1.4 TC pairing. This setup is absolutely razor sharp, it is a superb combination. There is little or no loss in sharpness using the TC compared with using the DA*300 without it, unless you have an issue (i.e. poor copy) of one or both of these lenses. I think this is unlikely.

- You may find that it's easier to use manual focus for the flying Dragonflies as it will be almost impossible to aim the AF at the right spot for long enough for it focus accurately. With the static Dragonflies the AF will probably work best.

Good luck with the calibration John, I hope it makes a difference. Would be interested in seeing some more shots when you've had the chance to check the lenses and try out some different techniques.

Regards
David

I'm with Alan on this one, I just can't get excited about pictures of the moon, whether perigree or waxing gibbous! Until tonight I had no idea what either of these things mean.

Regards
David

Here you go Barrie, this is my suggested crop on the third image:




Regards
David

Hi John

Regarding front focussing issues, on the first set you posted yesterday, it can be seen most clearly on the first three dragonfly images. If you look at the wings closest to the camera there is a point on them that is more sharply in focus than the head of the insect is. This implies that either:

(a) the camera is front focussing, or;
(b) you are focussing the camera on the wrong part of the subject

Do have you focus point set to use the centre AF point only? If not, it may help to change the settings to just use the centre point, then use this to focus on the chosen area (eyes for living things) and re-compose as required before pressing the shutter. It may also help to disable the shutter button from focussing and use only the back AF button instead. I use this method and find it helps to ensure I only activate the AF when I want to, not when the camera wants to.

To test whether your camera is front focussing, set it up on a tripod (or another fixed point) and aim at something like a newspaper set at 45 degrees angle to the camera. Set the lens to its widest aperture and make sure the camera is at a realistic distance from the subject which would represent an average normal shooting distance. Focus on the subject using the AF, take a picture and check the results. The area in the centre of the frame should be in sharpest focus (using centre point AF). If the sharpest focus is behind, the camera/lens combination is back focussing, if the opposite applies it is front focussing. Adjust the AF using the AF Fine Adjustment in the Camera Menu and keep repeating until the focus is accurate. This method works great on a prime lens like the DA*300 plus TC.

Regards
David

PS: The second set of shots posted today are well composed and well taken, but they are still not displaying the sharpness you should be achieving with the DA*300 and 1.4 TC combination. This makes me think there's a calibration or settings issue somewhere with your kit. I don't think camera shake is the main problem but it may also be contributing. It only requires a tiny amount of movement to ruin the sharpness with the DA*300 and 1.4 TC.

Now I am really starting to disagree with you Nigel! The catchlights are natural and look exactly so, there's nothing wrong here. To change them would be dishonest, unnecessary and counter productive.

Also the suggestion of the flash for these shots is not only unnecessary IMO, but would completely ruin the natural beauty and soft lighting that is so important to them.

There, I've said what I think again!

Cheers
David

I don't think you're going too far wrong Barrie, these shots look lovely. Colours are natural, compositions are pleasing to my eye.

There are a few minor suggestions I can make:

- In the first shot a move slightly to the right (if this was possible) would have been beneficial so that the river's right bank could be seen. Also this would have avoided cutting the right edge of the frame with the bridge support

- A very slight tilt to the right on the first shot and the opposite on the last shot, this is very minor

- I would crop some off the bottom of the third shot so that the line of the larger pebbles lines up with the bottom right corner of the image, the same in the second shot so the left edge of the road lines up with the bottom left corner

- A small lift to the shadows in the first image

As stated though these are lovely shots.

Regards
David

Hi John

Thanks for posting these, they are very interesting shots, especially the dragonflies.

Number 4 is superb, it's a shame the insect is the wrong way round in number 5, otherwise this would be just as good.

For me, there is more sharpness and contrast available from the DA*300 plus 1.4TC. Did you use a tripod or any other kind of camera support for these shots or were they hand held?

Also, I wonder whether some lens calibration to your K-5 body would be beneficial as all of the shots look as though they are a little front-focussed. A minus adjustment in the AF Fine Adjustment menu (menu item 27 I think) might help.

I have been amazed how sharp and contrasty the DA*300 plus TC combination is; these shots are almost there but don't quite show the lenses at their best. If you get the settings right I'm sure you will see the quality shine through.

Hope this is helpful.

Regards
David

Ahh, somewhere else.......now where could that be?

Regarding the images, I failed to spot Nigel's point about the yellow saturation, but on reading Nigel's post again I think he may be spot on. I took the liberty of copying a couple of the images and turning down the yellows in PS3, this seemed to me to make the images more natural in colouring.

I'm not going to take the liberty of re-posting them here as I do not wish to hijack Alan's thread.

Regards
David

All of these shots are beautiful and expertly taken.

I sort of agree with Nigel in a way, in that number 4 is my favourite and also that in number 1 the background fights a bit for attention. However, as mentioned on the 'other forum', this for me is not because of the compositions, but because the greens look a bit aggressive and over-saturated, especially in the first one. Also the reds look a little bright to me in 1, 2 and 3, whereas in number 4 all of the colouring looks natural and neutral.

I realise this is a bit brave making comments like this on such superb images, but I have to say what I see!

Best wishes
David