Are you sure you haven't just set the time 12 hours wrong?

You can't change AM/PM, you have to cycle through the hours to get to the correct time - the AM/PM display is automatic based on the time you've set.

It's slightly more obvious if you switch to a 24hr display, and set the right time, then switch back to 12hr display.

Don't wonder, test it.

Will this be aerial work, or is someone else with a CPL doing the flying?

And specifically AF-S.

This is so, so true.

I've not taken a single 35mm film picture since getting the K10D a year ago. I was staggered at how quick this transition was. Wide is anything 18 or less, not 28 or less, now.

I've looked through a 35mm viewfinder a couple of times, and thought, strewth, that looks wide.

Completely converted, me.

Occasionally I might shoot RAW+.

I'll set the camera to boost the sharpening a bit, and maybe the saturation. Then I can show the unedited JPG to people without having to do anything to it, or look at it in something like Windows Picture viewer, also with no work.

Then the ones I like, I'll work on the RAW file.

But I have to confess, in recent times, I've just deleted most of the JPGs, and kept the RAWs - so much so that mostly I just use RAW now. Just in case I get one where I really need to pull detail out of the shadows...

You go here, and follow the instructions very carefully.

It looks hard, but it isn't.

You can go straight to 1.3 from whichever version it already has, although you cannot go backwards (without a lot of fiddling about).

Of course. I said Actual tech guys are often very good, and I expect they're as frustrated with their lot as we are with ours.

It's the people running it that are morons. They imagine that an automated system that generally annoys the hell out of anyone with an actual problem is A Good Thing.

As I say, either they're morons, or we simply have no idea at all of the sheer number of greater morons deluging their people with stupid questions all the time, that they have no alternative but to implement a ludicrously crude filtering mechanism.

Here's the logic I imagine:

1. They waste our time with stupid questions.
2. If they can't be arsed to send us the camera, they probably don't have a serious enough problem.
3. If they do send us the camera, we can look at it without having to talk to idiots. Then we can fix it if there's a problem, and send it back in return for money. Result!

This would be understandable if it didn't fall down with the problem people seem to recount with depressing frequency, namely that cameras sent in, come back either unfixed or worse.

So enough of the actual tech guys are either too busy, and are being crapped on by their management, or aren't all that good either.

It's a wonder any cameras work at all.

One more thing.. I observed what happened if I changed the focal length the camera was set to.

As expected, the longer the focal length set, the more the sensor moved about.

Set to 800mm, I couldn't hold it still enough - it wasn't long before large enough sensor movements took place for it to give up.

Right, I'm pretty sure I know what's going on now, at least for my K10D.

I've taken the lens off and actually watched what's happening during long exposures, with SR on and off.

First with SR on:

The mirror pops up, and for small camera movements, you can see the sensor moving around as it tries to correct. It looks strange

Then if I increase the amplitude of the movements, there comes a point, where it appears that the SR 'gives up', and the sensor visibly flops to the extent of its movement, under gravity.

From then on, SR is ineffective, and the sensor moves about only due to gravity. Rotating the camera makes the thunk happen... and it is absolutely, definitely, beyond any doubt, the sensor moving that causes the noise. You can see it flop, and it thunks slightly as it hits the extent of its travel.

Once the exposure is complete, the SR sorts itself out on its own - the next exposure then has SR effective again. There is no need to switch off and on.

And with SR off:

The sensor does not move during the exposure, at all. Rotating the camera does not result in the sensor moving at all under gravity. So no thunk.

Notes

Whether the camera is operating as it's supposed to, I cannot say for certain, since I tend to avoid assuming that what I imagine to be common sense is necessarily fact.

However, I am reasonably confident that SR is functioning, at least for small movements of the camera.

A couple more observations:

It did not take a great deal of movement for the SR to 'give up' as I indicated above. Looking through the viewfinder, the little hand icon at the bottom on the left remained illuminated for the whole time, even after movements much larger than made the SR give up.

However, it does not seem that such large movements before the shutter opens cause failure of the SR system. I could half press the shutter, hold it half pressed, move the camera around through large movements, then complete the press with the camera making only small movements - with the camera then reasonably still, SR was clearly functioning. Which is nice.

Finally, I cannot be certain that the 'lens off' case is the same as the 'lens on' case. However, the presence or absence of 'thunkability' is the same in both cases.

I hope this is of interest. I'll now get on to removing the dust that my camera is doubtless now full of...