All Forum Comments
Comment by chirpy posted on Best Macro Lense ? at 02/04/2009 - 22:20
For the money, I'd go with the DA* 300mm and try and get closer. Or, I'd go with Georges idea of an older 300mm f2.8 with a matching TC.
Personally, I went for the Sigma 500mm f4.5. But that's a serious investment.
Comment by chirpy posted on Which 500mm for wildlife? at 01/04/2009 - 09:55
Hope you don't mind, but I had a play with that last JPG you uploaded and this was the best I could do:

I'd prefer to crop it more to the left so that the duck is moving into the image a little more, and tighten the crop - but that would need to be done with the original.
http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/lenses/primes/short-tele/FA85f2.8-Soft.html
Comment by chirpy posted on "This lens is soft" and other myths at 13/03/2009 - 18:02
Comment by chirpy posted on should shake reduction on(mono pod) at 12/03/2009 - 22:14
I've not found them easy to photograph. Like you've found here, they have a knack of flying at just the right level to thwart the light and getting good lighting is very difficult indeed. I think you've done very well. Patience and timing is everything
My best effort so far is this one when it banked, but I'm not happy with it and am still waiting for the best light to grab one of these blighters right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chirpy_uk/3010847614/sizes/l/
Comment by chirpy posted on Red Kite with Pentax 55-300 at 07/03/2009 - 10:38
Comment by chirpy posted on Second attempt: pentax 100 2.8 smc dfa sharpness at 05/03/2009 - 16:31
Dan may relate his experience of a shattered filter severely scratching the front lens element when it broke on dropping the lens.
Any degradation must also relate to quality of filter used, the parallelism of the glass, it's thickness, flatness, surface properties and transmission properties of the coating(s). So I would say using a good quality filter certainly lessens any perceived or real effect (which I am yet to see :wink.
Comment by chirpy posted on Filter, or not? at 28/02/2009 - 10:44
If I were at the beach or other environment where corrosive elements in the air could attack the lens, then maybe I'd use them for those situations.
Otherwise, I simply use the lens hood. It's a relatively cheap piece of plastic that can be replaced, if damaged it's unlikely to affect the rest of the lens, and it has the benefit of reducing glare.
Dan may relate his experience of a shattered filter severely scratching the front lens element when it broke on dropping the lens.
Also, with macro photography and also long telephoto shots, I believe that I do see noticeable degradation of the image and light when sticking extra glass in front of the lens that the manufacturers didn't design it for. As an example, the Sigma 500mm f4.5 actually comes with its own protective front element built in - but that was designed specifically by Sigma for that lens.
Comment by chirpy posted on Filter, or not? at 28/02/2009 - 08:45


If you're doing macro work, then the aperture is often academic as you'll be stopping it down, but you'd want to start around f2.8~f4 to get a nice bright image in the VF.
If you want the ultimate insect lens available new, then I'd recommend the Sigma 180mm hands-down - I have it and it's great for insects and a quick change to a medium telephoto lens too.
Second hand, there's the various incarnations of the Pentax 200mm Macro (arguably the best there's been), the Voigtlander 125mm Macro, and also the various copies of the Vivitar Series 1 105mm macro.
I'd love Pentax to come out with a weather-sealed ~150mm macro - would be ideal for me