I'd definitely go with the 16-45, as to a longer lens you might want to wait on the 50-135. Get a used A lens in the meantime, go hold you over. Plenty on ebay.

Adorama sold me mine, they may or may not have more in stock. I bought the extra battery from B&H, it's a generic brand but it's a standard battery.

No, different voltage. Your remote switch will work, however.

These features require more current than AA's can supply. I suppose you could make a pack with five or six AA cells, but it may not have enough amperage for the camera.

You'll enjoy it!

Not only the average user, but even professional advertising photography doesn't need what's already available.

The agencies want you to shoot 39 megapixels so they can print a double-gate spread on an offset press through a 200 line screen? C'mon, get real!!

I still could care less about "full frame". If a sensor was designed to match, say, the dimensions of A3 paper, we'd be using all 10 megapixels on the K10D for salable prints rather than only a bit over 8. The shape of the sensor makes a lot of difference.

We've gotten used to the 4x6 snapshot because it is two movie frames side-by-side, on 35mm film. Time to move on, and give us a more pleasing shape!!

Personally, I'd rather see someone come up with a sensor with a more sensable aspect ratio, more like the 8x10/11x14/16x20 photos that portrait and wedding shooters tend to sell.

Since with either full-frame or APS-C, you're essentially cutting off the edges of the frame, a 10 megapixel sensor with a 4:5 or 3:4 aspect ratio would be like having a 12 megapixel sensor on a full frame, even if it only covered the image circle of APS-C.

Now, THAT would be a worthwhile investment!

B&H sells a generic battery for $19.95US. It works fine with the charger, I'm running the camera off of it (it's in the grip, and you get a choice of which battery to use first) and it works fine.

The key is to make a system that makes sense to you! I use Adobe Bridge to rename my files, and the system is:

My initials
Underscore
yyyymmdd (keeps the files in chronological order)
Dash
HHMMSS

This pretty much avoids duplicate names, since rarely do I shoot more than one frame per second.

Welcome to the forums.

The 16-45 is an excellent choice. I'm not so sure of the 50-200, that's a long zoom range.

If you're into serious photography, it helps that the camera can take all sorts of old lenses going back to the 1970's. And if you get the adapter, you can use all those fantastic M42 screw mount lenses.

I still have two MX bodies with winders and a K1000 sitting in my studio cabinet. Until the D, those were the cameras I used to make my way as a working photographer.

The K1000 has become a cult classic by now, defenitely keep it!

Zaphod:

Use your heads! Try pressing the green button in Manual on an M lens, the camera should stop down the lens, take a meter reading, and return to open apeture. Then you take the photo. I know it works that way on the D, and it's been so succcessful that I can't imagine them taking it off the newer cameras.

Since I have some old M and K lenses that I dearly love, I hope the K10D will allow that method. The user's manual seems to indicate that it does, so I'm guessing it will. I know the focus confirmation light works on the D no matter what lens is on it, but I'm going for a Katz Eye screen anyway.

Regards to Marvin!