It's the diamonds that are bad but the print isn't that horrible and some people would surely like it.
Maybe it would be a great idea for a third party to make some stickers for the K-X so you can pimp them a bit up

This one for example does look quite cute ^^



Here is a Bruce Lee D3

Did some searching and CCD is a Bubble memory device and they are know not or hardly to wear so CCD might go on forever.

CMOS is something else and I could not find anything hard about that but if it's close to what is use with memory devices like an SD card then it's the oxide layer isolating the floating gate that will wear out over so many cycles till the point they stop isolating and you get some dead or hot pixels then.

The sensor does wear and video will not have a positive effect on that but most likely you will have replaced your camera before you would see anything and the shutter would wear out first unless you only film with it.

The flash only meters with the pre-flash and that one only goes off when you press the shutter release, if it should fire a pre-flash with every change in exposure you will get mad of the strobing light and the battery will be dead in half an hour
So no the flash can not and will not give a warning.

In the range of the flash capabilities that is.
The flash can not go higher then his maximum output and it also have a minimum output which you might hit when doing close-up work.

K2000 is imported camera from the USA since in the EU and Asia it's called the K-M so I don't know how that will work with warranty if you got one.

All in all the hardware in the K2000 is almost the same as the K200D but the K200D has weather sealing, top LCD screen, 11 AF focus points and AF focus point indication in the viewfinder so I would get the K200D just because it has more features.

Looks like it's front focusing with around 4mm but like the other says you need to get it square since that can influence the results.

Also if it's really critical you should do it outdoors since the AF works with light and the spectrum of artificial light is different and will effect auto focus although I don't it's that critical with your test set-up but if you focus at macro distance it might.

Cokin have a GND set which holds 3 GND filters and a holder, you only need to buy the right rings for your lenses then.
For the CPL, I don't think you should get the Cokin one because of the quality and when you combine it with a GND filter in the holder it will get very unhandy to use since you're turning the CPL and the GND to get the effect and all that on the end of your lens. Too much trouble for me while hand holding the camera.

Adrian it really depends on what filters you use if it's worth the hassle.

There are only 3 common filters that are useful when using a digital camera and those are Graduated Natural Density, Natural Density and Polarisers.
For the GND the square filter is very useful since you can move the filter and therefore the transition around.
For ND it can also be useful however there are viable ND filters on the market now and those look handier to me but those are screw-in filters.
Polarisers I also like the screw-in and I believe the quality of those are better then the square ones, at least I never heard a very good review about them
And then you also have infra-red filters and more of those special filtering filters.

So basically for landscapes the Square filters are the ones to get for the rest it's personal taste but if you're on the move screw-in are handier.
Qua money, there isn't a huge differnce like in the old days since the amount of filters you use has come down to a couple, you don't need any white balance filter or colour filters for B&W anymore.
I use both systems together now. I've a set of square GND filters and besides that I use srew-in polarisers.

The use of UV filter for protection has already being discuss a lot of times here.
In general they won't do much for protection because you can hit the front element with a hammer but a filter won't survive that kind of abuse.
A filter will only protect it against sand that's blow up by the wind for example or crosive stuff like salt water on the beach but for the rest it's up to you if it's worth it or not.
The problem is however that since the filters are flat they can produce ghosting and the coatings most of the time aren't that good so you get flares and glares and that's one reason not to use them if you don't need them.

Oh my.
Where photographers just as "paranoid" with film?

With the K10D you also need to keep the battery door open the first time you start up, maybe you need to do the same with the K-X?