All Forum Comments
Comment by Anvh posted on Voting competition #1 - Cycles at 14/08/2010 - 19:28
Great photos.
Surely the first one is super, she is just great like you said and I really like the second and fourth for their feeling.
The ones with the girl(s) aren't doing much for me, there is little going on there compared to your other photos.
You're btw photos reminds me of his Staple Street project www.christopherzedano.com
Surely the first one is super, she is just great like you said and I really like the second and fourth for their feeling.
The ones with the girl(s) aren't doing much for me, there is little going on there compared to your other photos.
You're btw photos reminds me of his Staple Street project www.christopherzedano.com
Comment by Anvh posted on Edinburgh Fringe at 14/08/2010 - 19:18
That's a way to keep your fellow photographers busy ^^
Comment by Anvh posted on Studio Adventures at 14/08/2010 - 19:13
Good pano, it's interesting it isn't that boring because you're missing something in the foreground or any depth at all, I wonder why that is.
Comment by Anvh posted on Kenilworth Panorama at 14/08/2010 - 19:11
Casio F range has some very fast FPS, maybe one of those is something?
Comment by Anvh posted on Pocket camera opinions sought at 14/08/2010 - 17:05
There is also one with 6400 but the higher iso shots lack finer detail though but still very good never the less.
Comment by Anvh posted on Rwanda with a K-x at 14/08/2010 - 12:21
No you're right it's an RC, a version tha has the potential to be the final product.
RC come after the Beta, so if you want you can say it's a Gamma or even a Delta depending what version it is.
RC come after the Beta, so if you want you can say it's a Gamma or even a Delta depending what version it is.
Comment by Anvh posted on Pentax Lens Profiles in Lightroom 3.2 at 14/08/2010 - 12:18
terje-l wrote:
To be honest, I think you are getting too theoretical about this, Stefan. Most of us, I think, have a more practical approach, and many of us have problems following your scientific explanations.
This isn't some theoretical thing that doesn't work or isn't worthwhile, it really can make a difference on how smooth the tones are.Anvh wrote:
Since like you said Dynamic range has increased the spacing of these tones also has increased meaning you might even want to over expose more now then you did with your first digital SLR to keep the graduation between the tones smooth, just don't clip it.
I'm with John on this. My experience is that a slight underexposure gives a better result than overexposure. So I would be reluctant to expose to the right.Since like you said Dynamic range has increased the spacing of these tones also has increased meaning you might even want to over expose more now then you did with your first digital SLR to keep the graduation between the tones smooth, just don't clip it.
To be honest, I think you are getting too theoretical about this, Stefan. Most of us, I think, have a more practical approach, and many of us have problems following your scientific explanations.
There is a difference on what you want to do with the photo.
If you want the photo ready straight out of the camera then yes you're right.
If you want to process the photo at home then how the photo looks straight out of the camera doesn't matter, you want to be sure you capture the most details/tones/information with it for you to work with.
If you don't understand what I mean, then please say so, maybe I can explain it in another way.
Here is Matt's explanation and a topic that shows the difference, just look at pschlute's photos. link
Besides the dynamic range the article is still up to date, RAW files are still only 12 bit so still 4,096 discrete tonal values and you can see how those are spread by the table they use.
2048 levels for the Brightest Tones
1024 levels for Bright Tones
512 levels for the Mid-Tones
256 levels for the Dark Tones
128 levels for the Darkest Tones
Since like you said Dynamic range has increased the spacing of these tones also has increased meaning you might even want to over expose more now then you did with your first digital SLR to keep the graduation between the tones smooth, just don't clip it.
2048 levels for the Brightest Tones
1024 levels for Bright Tones
512 levels for the Mid-Tones
256 levels for the Dark Tones
128 levels for the Darkest Tones
Since like you said Dynamic range has increased the spacing of these tones also has increased meaning you might even want to over expose more now then you did with your first digital SLR to keep the graduation between the tones smooth, just don't clip it.
mowog wrote:
I haven't the slightest idea what Algi and Anvh are talking about. All that theoretical stuff is way over my head...
No problems.I haven't the slightest idea what Algi and Anvh are talking about. All that theoretical stuff is way over my head...
I think we ended with an important thing though that you need to expose digital differently then film.
You might have heard the phrase "expose to the right" here or somewhere else.
That's because the sensor actually capture more "tones" the brighter it gets, the only thing is it simply stops when you reach the top and you lose all data on that pixel, you burned it out so to say.
So what you should do is expose it so that the brightest part just doesn't burn out (clip) that way you've the maximum detail in your photo and in post processing you bring the brightness off the photo back to the level you want.
Here is more about it. link
The very last part of the whole things is very interesting it explains the difference between film and digital. I'll quote it here.
Quote:
For film based photography, the highlight end of the scale is compressed by the shoulder portion of the D/log E curve. So as brighter and brighter objects are photographed, the highlight detail gets gradually compressed more and more until eventually the film saturates. But up until that point, the highlight compression progresses in a gradual fashion.
Solid state sensors in digital cameras behave very differently. As light falls on a sensor, a charge either accumulates or dissipates (depending on the sensor technology). Its response is well behaved right up until the point of saturation, at which time it abruptly stops. There is no forgiveness by gradually backing off, as was the case with film.
Because of this difference, setting up the exposure using an 18% gray card (as is typically done with film) does not work so well with a digital camera. You will get better results if you set your exposure such that the whitest white in the scene comes close to, but not quite reaching, the full digital scale (255 for 8-bit capture, 65535 for 16-bit capture). Base the exposure on the highlight for a digital camera, and a mid-tone (e.g. 18% gray card) for a film camera.
For film based photography, the highlight end of the scale is compressed by the shoulder portion of the D/log E curve. So as brighter and brighter objects are photographed, the highlight detail gets gradually compressed more and more until eventually the film saturates. But up until that point, the highlight compression progresses in a gradual fashion.
Solid state sensors in digital cameras behave very differently. As light falls on a sensor, a charge either accumulates or dissipates (depending on the sensor technology). Its response is well behaved right up until the point of saturation, at which time it abruptly stops. There is no forgiveness by gradually backing off, as was the case with film.
Because of this difference, setting up the exposure using an 18% gray card (as is typically done with film) does not work so well with a digital camera. You will get better results if you set your exposure such that the whitest white in the scene comes close to, but not quite reaching, the full digital scale (255 for 8-bit capture, 65535 for 16-bit capture). Base the exposure on the highlight for a digital camera, and a mid-tone (e.g. 18% gray card) for a film camera.
Tomorrow it's the 15th but I need to get up early the next day so don't expect that I would show the entries or start the voting thread at midnight, I just can't sorry
Will do it in the morning before I leave so that no one will be surprised the closing time has moved forward.
If you enter please make sure the longest side of your photo isn't more then 800 pixels long. I've had time to resize the ones that have entered but I can't do it for last minute entries.