Much better, but I like the color of the other one more.

The problem is not so much the EV setting or need for ND grads, at least not when the trouble area is in the center of the image.

The issue is simply that the camera cannot handle the range of light from the darkest object to the lightest object. Moving the EV down 2 is simply going to change where the exposure gets lost. If you lower it enough to expose the water properly, a lot of the remaining image will be dark shadows and possible lose most of its definition.

As far as adding grads, you would need some sort of center spot grad or centered grad (do they make such things?) to work around the big bright spot in the middle. You need to use bracketed exposures and some post production to fix that.

Most of the rest of the image is very nicely exposed. Lovely photo overall.

Dunno if this helps, but it sounds like spirit_of_will may be the most correct.




Found at:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=21091800

Wish I had my camera with me, but isn't this what automatically adjusts the ISO when the exposure is out of range? I think this is what I had set one time without knowing, and almost all my indoor photos were coming out all grainy with very high ISO.

Excellent! The advertised price of $899 just seemed too low. This guy's $1185 is much better.

As always, I guess someone will be willing pay the price to be the first kid on his block with the new toy.

Argh, I saw you beat me by a few seconds Matt.
Tried to delete my message... but too late again.

I have used a 1 meter extension on the cable that came with the K10D. That is all I have, but at least it makes moving around the laptop a little easier.

Not really any limit on the software...

In general the limit should be about 5 meters for USB2 device. Although perhaps 3 meters or so is probably a safer guess at a reliable length.
You can also daisy-chain a limited numbers of hubs to get longer length but that is sort of a pain in the rear.

Any USB 2.0 compliant device should adhere to that.

When you power on your K10D and hold Menu, does it say that the firmware is in fact 1.20? (i.e. did it update properly?) I suspect this is OK, for me the K10D was not even detected until the firmware was upgraded.

When the shutter is released, does the green progress bar in the lower right of remote assistant show the image being transfered at all?
How about no the camera, does the LCD show the image or are images stored on the camera? Or are they stored on the hard drive anyway?

Try using the camera's shutter release button. Does it have the same effect? (It should work the same either via the computer or via the camera when connected).

Nope, you did not miss anything. That is not an option.

When you had the remote flash 3m away, are you sure it was pointing directly at the subject and not, perhaps, askew in such a manner that it was unable to catch the control flash reflection from the subject?

Otherwise, I cannot think of any reason why the flash would not have fired.

Oddly, there does seem to be some inconsistency in functionality.
When the control flash (attached to the camera) is set to "not fire in wireless mode", it seems to fire anyway. I see no difference when I have only the control flash in use and have it set to fire in wireless and to not fire in wireless mode.
There is a definite difference when I have the remote flash active, so it is obvious that something isn't quite right.

Maybe just my perception, but the control flash also seems to fire its control signals with less power when in high speed flash mode than when in normal wireless mode. If that is true, it would be more critical that your remote flash be aimed in such a way that it will pick up the control flash reflections properly.