I think it is a Leica L mount fitting. Hefty would know for sure. K.

You can use all Pentax lenses on your GX10. You just need to set the menu item "allow use of aperture ring" to on for M and K series lenses. "A" series lenses you can set the aperture ring to A and use the camera body to set the aperture.

The only problem is that the metering on the K10 (and I assume the GX10) is a bit whacky with the older lenses and so you need to check the histogram and reshoot if necessary. OK for static subjects, obviously!

K.

For fast film Kodak Tri-X 400 or Ilford HP5 Plus. For slower, finer grained images Delta 100 or Ilford FP4.

Developing, try Peak Images, or our very own Peter Elgar on here also does developing.

K.

If you want to use Program mode you'll need A series lenses, if you are happy to use manual/aperture priority you can use "K" and M series lenses too. "A" series lenses are usually more expensive than the earlier M and K series. Autofocus F and FA lenses can be used too, manually, but you are paying a premium for the AF but it does mean you could use them on your dSLR too (I think you said you had one?)

Personally, I would go for the trio of 28mm, 50mm and 135mm primes. There are various zooms available of differing quality. I rather like my M series 28-50mm and 40-80mm for example. Of the 135mm offerings the M series f/3.5 is plentiful, cheap, small and light. The K series f/2.5 is heavier but better IQ. With 28mm lenses the f/3.5 lenses are reputed to be sharper than the more common f/2.8 but are obviously slower. For 50mm you cannot go wrong with the f/1.7. The f/1.4 is faster, but more expensive, the f/2 cheap but still sharp.

HTH. K.

Before the price hikes I bought a DA 12-24, a 43mm Ltd and a DA* 50-135. Since the hikes I have been buying second hand 30+ year old K series lenses...

K.

ARRRRRRGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!

Having said that, does anyone know what this lens is like? I assume it can be used on 35mm film cameras which is why I am potentially interested.

K.

I like the popped shot but agree that just the shock absorbers sign would work better.

Cheers, Kris.

I am still intending to come. K.

The colour might be a result of being inside (mixed/artificial light). You can remove the colour cast easily enough in PP but as Gartmore said, focus/camera shake is more of an issue.

Best wishes Kris.

The first I like better in colour, the last in monochrome. It is a great 'photo essay' and does indeed work well as a set. I wonder whether the fourth one would work well as monochrome but with the red sign 'popped'? I'm not normally a fan of popping but in this case in might work well.

Best wishes, Kris.