Oh the irony? par Kris Lockyear, on ipernity

K.

It is certainly possible to get sharp images with old MF lenses. I do it all the time. In fact, I probably use old MF glass much more than my new AF stuff.

Are you relying on your eyes, or the green hexagon? It seems fine on my K-3 but I did have problems with the K20D where the green hexagon was telling porkies.

K.

Amazing colours. Oh, and nicely photographed too K.

Have you got a secret stash of these you are selling off? K.

Try Googling for a service manual, there are some about. The best UK repair shop for older Pentax SLRs is Harrow Technical.

K.

Why on earth would anyone blur a number plate? What possible use is it to man or beast, especially as everyone and his or her dog can read it as you are going along the road? I've never understood this number plate blurring business and have never bothered.

K.

As I have said in answer to many questions on here: do what works for you. We are all different, we all like to take different types of pictures, we all have different ways of working. I love shooting old manual primes on both film and digital. Other people would hate it. I don't care, and nor should they. As far as I am concerned there are two important variables for a hobbyist photographer: (a) did you have fun doing it and (b) are you happy with the results? For some people that would be shooting with their iwotsit, for others dragging and 5x4 view camera about, and for others both!

K.

I often fit one prime and leave the zooms at home, but then I'm an odd-ball. I don't know why one would use a 50/2.8 unless it is a macro lens. Usually 50s are 1.7/1.4/1.2...

One thing I would add... don't be afraid to take loads and loads of images and throw most of them away. I've been taking snaps of birds in my garden using a 40 year M42 manual 400mm lens. One or two have been pretty nice and I'm pleased with them... most go straight in the [virtual] bin. The BIG advantage with digital is that it costs nothing to keep trying. I'd cry if I had to throw four packets of 6x4 prints into the [real] bin.

For exposure, there are lots of different ways of doing it but how I'd do it is...

Shoot raw, or raw + jpg. The raw files give you lots of room to edit exposure after the fact.
Use Av mode.
Set the aperture to what you want (f/8 or f/11).
See what shutter speed that gives you. If it is too slow, up the ISO, if it is fast, reduce ISO to improve image quality.
Take a snap of the general area your birds will be in. Check the histogram and use a little exposure compensation if it looks as though it is too bright (the blinkies) or too dark (histogram all the way to the left).
Now, forget the exposure unless the light changes dramatically. Concentrate on the photo, getting the bird in focus, keeping the camera steady (be that tripod, bean bag or whatever). Don't be afraid to use the "motordrive" and take several pictures quickly. DON'T CHIMP every shot. Just now and again to make sure things aren't completely awry. As much as possible keep your eye to the viewfinder.

That would be my technique. Everyone has a different route to the same end.

Cheers, Kris.

My limited experience of the MZ/ZX series is that they are prone to electronic and mechanical failure, especially the nylon cog/drive system which regularly fails. It probably isn't now possible to get parts, and would cost more than the camera is worth to repair.

Older, more (or entirely) mechanical cameras are generally more reliable and easier to get fixed when they go wrong. I suspect my SV will still be going strong long after the vast majority of the newer electronic whizz-bang cameras are pushing up the daisies.

Sorry. K.