Primes or zooms?

Why would one buy a 50mm f2.8 Prime when one could get a 17-50mm f2.8 Zoom? What is the difference, if any?

Thoughts please

Bob

The prime is likely to be lighter, more compact, take smaller filters, focus closer if a macro lens, have better distortion figures, be free from flare, be sharper........and perhaps cost less as well.

I only used primes when I used old film cameras as zooms were expensive and not very good by and large.

Since using AF cameras I have tried primes but always gone back to zooms.

I am willing to sacrifice some image quality for the flexibility of having a 'walk about' zoom lens.

But that's me! We are all different and have different needs.

Cheers

Mac

Agree with mac...the versatility is the key.
I have had loads of primes but only taken a handful of shots on each...always start out with good intentions of just using the prime then there's a shot I can't get and on goes the 16-45....

I often fit one prime and leave the zooms at home, but then I'm an odd-ball. I don't know why one would use a 50/2.8 unless it is a macro lens. Usually 50s are 1.7/1.4/1.2...

Maybe the 17-50 f2.8 is branded as a Macro - in that case it is somewhat misleading as reproduction would be 1:2 or 1:4 lifesize (ie the subject would be smaller), the 50mm f2.8 would reproduce at 1:1

Nearly always use primes (K series 20, 28, 30 and 55, DFA100 and DA*300) unless going ultra wide (wider than 20mm) and then I use the DA 12-24.

Depends on the prime and the purpose. I reckon a portrait session with, say, a c.70mm Pentax lens would be very rewarding. Or an afternoon taking macro shots with a Tamron 90mm. Not that I own either.

In truth I find most prime lenses a bit restricting on a crop sensor camera. 28mm is just about OK. The only prime I use regularly is the 22mm which came with my Canon EOS M. That's OK and makes for a neat package.

A 17-50 2.8 zoom is my favourite for the kinds of things I like to photograph.

it dont mater what you do as you can have a prime lens and take a cracking photo with it and you can have a zoom andtake a crap photo with it and you can do exactly the same a few days late and it can be vice verser

I've never done a portrait set etc. I normally go out walking or cycling and shoot what I see.
My problem is here the landscapes are very wide as it's do flat that anything over 20mm is going to be not wide enough.
Same when in towns where I see a nice crest 3m up and without a zoom you just don't get it.
Obviously a good prime is better for a certain limited purpose but I don't do these things...

As I have said in answer to many questions on here: do what works for you. We are all different, we all like to take different types of pictures, we all have different ways of working. I love shooting old manual primes on both film and digital. Other people would hate it. I don't care, and nor should they. As far as I am concerned there are two important variables for a hobbyist photographer: (a) did you have fun doing it and (b) are you happy with the results? For some people that would be shooting with their iwotsit, for others dragging and 5x4 view camera about, and for others both!

K.

I just think of my 10-20, 18-135, 55-300 and 150-500 as a large selection of primes!!
490 of them.

A stitched panorama? Whether you have a prime or a zoom with you, it's a simple matter of shooting several (even hand-held) overlapping shots and it's then easy to join them together - there is even free software for the job, e.g. Microsoft ICE.

Cheers.
Philip

I prefer to shoot primes up to about 200mm (film) or 135 (APS-C) beyond that long primes aren't really flexible enough. That said, wide-primes (for film) can be hard to find & expensive - I went for the FA20-35/4 as I couldn't find many examples of the FA 20 or 24 (I've since bought a K24mm which might be my choice from now on).

My usual combinations are something like:
Film: 24 or 28 or 20-35, 43 or 50 & 135
APS-C: DA17-70, 50 & 135 (I don't have anything other than the 10-17FE & 17-70 for wides on APS-C).

John.

I hear what you say but I spend almost zero time on post software manipulation of erots.
My aim is to learn to shoot as good as possible so I don't have to do any editing.
Like a film that you hand in to boots or wherever...what you take is what you get.