All Forum Comments
Comment by Tyr posted on Pentax K10d and Sigma 18-50 F28 lens at 04/11/2007 - 10:38
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=25462583
Comment by Tyr posted on "Your chocolate landed in my peanutbutter" at 04/11/2007 - 10:46
I can't remember what the outcome was or the exact technique but someone was going along similar lines. The way things disappear on DPReview it probably needs re-investigating.
Comment by Tyr posted on "Your chocolate landed in my peanutbutter" at 03/11/2007 - 21:46
or so the old Reeces Peanutbutter Cup commercial said...
so in one post is chat about propellors and another thread, an interesting read on multiexposures for noise reduction.
so now Don's brain is ramping up and a new concept is coming to light.
using multiple exposure mode to create an in camera HDR image.....
get back to you all soon when I get some experiments done....
There are several threads on the novel use of ME!!!
Comment by Tyr posted on "Your chocolate landed in my peanutbutter" at 02/11/2007 - 16:16
Good timing can be used if you dislike machine-gun mode.
I'd use a 17-70 lens or similar for a large display and a 50-200 for a small display. Also depends on the distance.
I'm going to have an other go with my K10D at the national fireworks competition in Plymouth sometime around April.
The pentax has a focal plane shutter, in which two curtains allow a slit of light to progressively travel across the CCD. The faster the shutter speed, the narrower the slit. Thus, the propellor is in a different place as the slit moves, causing the effect we see. There is a famous old photo of a racing car where the wheel becomes oval for the same reason. Focal plane shutter distortion.
The Sony I presume is a compact or bridge camera with an electronic shutter that combines a shutter that is opening to show all the frame at the same time, some sort of leaf shutter, combined with a "freeze frame" where the CCD itself is part of the shutter process. The result is no distortion.
It can be a little irritating that you get this sort of thing. at 1/180 does it still happen? That is the maximum shutter speed for full frame exposure on the K10D.
Comment by Tyr posted on A curiosity, just for experts… at 30/10/2007 - 12:07
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&thread=25431769
Multi-exposure mode in the K10D so you don't need to combine them in PP. Improved dynamic range and a lot less noise.
I think they decided 9 exposures at ISO100 was like shooting at ISO11 with ISO33 noise levels.
Comment by Tyr posted on Astro photography anyone? at 02/11/2007 - 09:07
It is a real shame as those two lenses are ones I am really interested in. I've lost interest in the zooms and just want to save for some primes.
I can't wait for the *55 *200 and *300.
Comment by Tyr posted on Prime Telephotos at 27/10/2007 - 14:38
Comment by Tyr posted on NEW K10D w/ Firmware 1.00 at 27/10/2007 - 14:40


I took the camera out for a spin a couple of times. I found that it is slow in writing RAW file to the memory card, overblows highlights, overexposes/underexposes in certain areas, does not have in-camera BW mode (which I love), and can only shoot JPEG when bracketing is turned on. I am generally not happy.
Learning to use a camera and its limitations any you will get brilliant shots. The needs to be exposed to the left of the histogram to retain maximum detail. Shooting to the right will cause blown out highlights. The S5Pro is one of the few cameras that you expose to right as it is much better with highlights than dark regions.
It does have in camera B+W mode but only in JPEG. There is no such thing as a B+W RAW file in any DSLR. It may be tagged as such, but will never be B+W. You can quickly apply a B+W filter to any shot you take in the K10D internally and save the output file as a JPEG on the camera! The in camera RAW developer is handy.
RAW works for exposure bracketing but only if you have a good memory card! A good memory card is very important on any DSLR. You can't stick in a good low speed card and expect it to keep up. That is like buying a sports kit car and sticking a 1.2l Polo engine in it and complaining that it won't go.
I'll just give some examples of places where the camera would normally overexpose parts.
Sky overexposure on an overcast day:
Exposed for sky details while still leaving it slightly high to capture shadow details. Processing the image I pulled down the highlights slightly and pushed up the dark regions.
Shooting into the sun:
There will always be some overexposure in this situation but there is enough shadow detail to be able to expose for the highlights you want and push up the shadows a bit.
Just my thoughts on what your problems seem to be. I always shoot on manual to get full control over the exposure. The metering system is not perfect an it becomes second nature to adjust to compensate. You must also know where/what to meter against to get the image you want.