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Has to be said though, £1400 (at SRS prices) is a hell of a lot of money to pay for those two advantages.
Comment by timothyw posted on Sigma 300mm F2.8 at 13/02/2013 - 16:30
its probably the most important decision I will make and i just don't know what to do. I just wish the auto focus was quicker on the Siggy
I'd imagine with the small f6.3 aperture at the 500mm end it ought help quite a bit?
Comment by timothyw posted on AFRAID TO SAY IT! at 13/02/2013 - 10:01
I'm fairly local at least.
Comment by timothyw posted on FOR SALE: SMC PENTAX DA 50-200MM WR (WEATHER RESISTANT) at 09/02/2013 - 20:29
Tim
Comment by timothyw posted on For Sale Or Trade Two Metz 50 AF-1 Flash at 09/02/2013 - 20:24
Anyway, good shots
Comment by timothyw posted on London calling at 09/02/2013 - 10:19
Comment by timothyw posted on For Sale Or Trade Two Metz 50 AF-1 Flash at 06/02/2013 - 14:53
I keep considering the cheap imitation grips, but I don't want to spend £30-£50 on them only to have them fall apart.
Comment by timothyw posted on Grips. Essential or not? at 04/02/2013 - 09:49
Both are good lenses, but the 50-135 isn't going to be much good to you if you want to take a shot at F1.4
If it's a question of cash you could always sell the DA*55 and replace it with the cheaper FA50, which will obviously give more similar results to the DA55 than the 50-135 can.
Comment by timothyw posted on Da*55 and or da*50-135 at 02/02/2013 - 16:09
Just a layman's question - how much better results will I get with any / all of the above mentioned 4 lenses?
Generally speaking, these lenses should give you better results (sharper picture, better colours, nicer bokeh), however, if you mainly shoot F8 or smaller aperture landscapes, then you probably won't notice any difference at all. The Pentax kit lens is perfectly competent.
If you're shooting indoor, or in low light, then these lenses allow a bit more light in, meaning that your shots can be less blurry and less noisy.
With all these lenses, because of their larger apertures (lower f number) you can create a shallower depth of field - that is, only a smaller amount of the picture will be in focus. This means that when taking a picture of, say, a person, the background will be more blurry and so less distracting from the subject of your image.
Unfortunately, as with most things in this hobby, there's no guarantee that buying more/'better' equipment will make your pictures any better. If you don't know what difference these lenses will make to your pictures, then I would suggest that you practice with the equipment that you already have, in order that you can get a better feel for what is missing.
Another thing you could consider is buying some old manual focus lenses, as these are typically much cheaper and let you test out different focal lengths/larger apertures without putting yourself well out of pocket. You can sell on those that you don't like.
Generally speaking an old 'prime' lens (that is, one that doesn't zoom) will give better quality images than an average new zoom lens.
Comment by timothyw posted on Lenses choice at 02/02/2013 - 14:38


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sandisk-Ultra-Class-Micro-Adapter/dp/B007JTKLEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361018117&sr=8-1
They're actually considerably faster than one of the 'class 10' cards I was using previously (half the time to clear the buffer!)
No real negatives yet.
I partly got them so that I could use with my tablet, although I have to confess that the micro sd cards are so small and fiddly that I'm generally reluctant to transfer them in and out of the tablet.
That and the lack of any great raw viewing software makes it a bit less useful than it perhaps ought be, although it does mean that down the line I can use the same cards in a gopro or phone or whatever other microsd (or any other kind of SD!) device I end up getting.