You can buy the Upgrade to v3 direct from Adobe for a smidge over £80 inc VAT and P&P.

You even get a decent outer box to stick your wallet with v2 in it as well


Steve

As I still shoot film - slide mainly but monochrome from time to time,

red/orange/yellow/green in Cokin P when Im using monochrome film
Polarisers - Cokin P or 49/58/63 & 77 thread for refection control
Grey & Blue Grads,ND 4 - Cokin P for slowing the exposure/improving the sky

All get regular airings, but are not actually used that frequently.

I've hung on to a lot of coloured/warming/cooling threaded filters, probably due to inertia as much as anything else. I'm old school on use of Skylight or UV filters on lenses, so Ive got a several dozen of these.

They're not worth a lot and moving them on via e-bay is too much hastle for the reward imho.


Steve

Fuji Lab address is now:

Fujifilm Processing Laboratory
PO BOX 136
Leeds
LS10 9BX

Tel: 0113 244 8221

as lifted from the web site a few moments ago.

The Warwick lab lost the contract and there was a gap in service - which is why I've migrated to The Darkroom Uk, based in Cheltenham - freepost service, 24 hr turn round on E6 and good price for process & mount (£7.25ish for a 36 exposure roll)


Steve

The AF 35-70f/2.8 does have it's own batteries - i think it uses 2 x AA, but I don't have an example in my collection and Bojidar's info on the lens doesn't mention this.

Steve

Mike - on the scale of things, I doubt very much if it's something we'd notice - a 77mm thread lens's focusing element will be heavier than a 49mm's and need more power to move it, thats a straight forward matter of physics. Using the integral flash and/or leaving the camera switched on on the grip will deplete the battery far quicker than using say a DA14 versus FA50.


Steve

British Police seem treat all RTA as crime scenes - whether fatal or not. End result - big delays, lots of huffing and puffing etc. Years ago, in times when life appeared to be simpler, they'd sketch the scene, runs a tape measure over the skid marks etc, photograph it all and get the road open again asap.

Can understand greater attention to the detail if its a fatal or the casualties are hard to extract, but it does appear to the casual observer that it's got a bit OTT.

My 2p's worth.


Steve

Another consideration is available storage capacity - if I'm shooting in the UK or our favourite Greek Island, then I'll use RAW all the time because I've enough SDHC cards to cover the number of images I'm likely to take.

However, if its a long trip and/or new ground, then I'll go to 4* JPEG. If I'd stuck with RAW last time away, I'd have needed at least 16 cards of 4 Gig capacity - double my inventory. I'm v happy with the K7's 4* JPEGs and the quality's excellant - as can be seen by the early morning shot of Mt cook I've posted.


Steve

Try also Robin at Harrow Technical. He's stripped and cleaned a couple of quite badly affected lenses for me.

http://harrowtechnical.co.uk/

The cost really depends on how much fungal infection there is and which of the lens elements are infected.


Steve

Don't think there is any filter that would be of any benefit.

Most important thing to do is to protect the front face of the lens - use the hood, keep the cap on when not in use as Jon says + have a rocket blower in you pocket to clear any dust. Better than a cloth.

A second body with a complementry zoom attached is v useful - not everything will be at a distance - sometimes they will be very close. If a second body isn't practical, still get the zoom lens which gives you the best fit with the 170-500 - which is probably a Tamron/Pentax 18-250.

Steve

I've put grips on all my DSLRs and later model SLRs that I use regularly. For me, they give the camera a better balance o/a as well as giving better field life as I have the second battery fitted in all cases - which isn't a big issue unless you are out and about a lot such that ops for recharging aren't always available. Fitting it in the grip means its always with the camera and not in the bottom of the bag you left behind at home....

Biggest issue with the K7 grip is the loss of a home for the remote. Not even a pouch on the strap which the MZ serries used to have - useful for the flash shoe and the view finder covers.

Have noticed that you need to make sure both "on" switches are "off" though - if the grip switch is left on, it drains the battery and can catch you out as a result.


Steve