This looks like an electronic viewfinder image that has some real-time processing applied to increase sharpening and contrast, as would be done post-processing. No reason why it can't be done in a camera, but probably mirrorless/EVF rather than SLR.

I think it's just a matter of getting used to it (with glasses/contacts if needed), and looking for objects at or close to the desired focal point where it will be obvious if they are 'split'. Try turning the camera to focus it if the object doesn't have vertical edges. I used split screen focusing for many years before going digital and never gave it a second thought - like Jonathan-Mac I changed my K20D screen to split prism and generally focussed manually, only the improved autofocus on the K5 convincing me it wasn't worth doing the same with that. Reverting to my ME Super is fine, the only minor complaint I have is the lack of dioptre adjustment, so I need glasses to focus,

I've never shot video on my DSLR, and don't particularly expect to, but if doesn't cost very much to include on the camera then I'm not complaining about where else Pentax could have spent the money (I'd like a split-prism VF and non-crippled K-mount, but don't expect ever to see them...). I've occasionally used my second camera (Oly 5060, LX3, now Fuji X20) for video, but only 'fun' things and the occasional record that needs motion and/or sound. I think the difference is that with SLR stills I can aspire to 'professional' quality (at least as opposed to 'snaps') whereas any video I do is the moving equivalent of 'snaps'. It's maybe good to know that the K5 can shoot decent video if needed.

FWIW I used to have an LX3 (now replaced with a Fuji X20) and was very impressed by the out-of-camera JPEGs (even have a couple enlarged to 12x18"), but still appreciate the higher image quality of the SLRs - initially K20, now K5IIs. I agree with several of the previous posters that getting the best out of an SLR involves post-processing (or maybe if you're not prepared to do that, careful experimenting with the in-camera menus - something I've not attempted with my Pentaxes, but it has paid dividends with the X20 where I shoot mainly in JPEG).

I use Photoshop Elements (I also have Lightroom but hardly ever use it, just personal preference) and the workflow is now pretty intuitive. I do the lighting/colour adjustments individually in RAW (easy as they are slider controls and you can see the effects straight away), sharpen slightly as a batch (minimally with K5IIs, you may prefer a little more with original K5), then convert to JPEGs and do any straightening, cropping, perspective correction etc. from there.

They did an excellent job on my ME Super a couple of years ago - full service, replaced the seals etc., and removed some gunge off the focusing screen. Just under £50. I'd certainly recommend them.

On paper it looks attractive, and if my only 'standard' zoom was the 18-55 I would be very interested. But I already have a 17-70 and a 24-90 (the latter normally on my film camera) and used to have a 16-45, so unless either the reviews suggest the IQ is significantly better than the 17-70, or the latter develops a fault, it will stay on the wish list for the time being.

If friends ask me for portraits I normally pull out an old 50mm A 1.7, which does the job quite well - it would be nice to have say a 77 Limited, but for the amount of use it would get it would be even more of a luxury than doubling/tripling up with the 16-85.

I use the following routine, normally with a USB card adapter (rather than connecting the camera to the computer - I usually charge the camera battery at the same time):

I have an 'incoming' folder for RAW images that I import the images to (just drag & drop in Windows, from the card folder in My Computer). I have a RAW codec installed so I can see (fairly) quickly what has transferred.

Edit RAW files as required, then batch-convert to jpegs and save them in a subfolder of the incoming folder - then do any further editing I want on the jpegs before moving them to date/theme based folders.

Transfer the RAW files to an individual folder and archive them.

Finally back up both jpeg and raw files to an external hard disk (the jpegs also go on to a further disk), and only then delete the files from the card.

Some interesting thoughts. I upgraded from K20D to K5IIs nearly two years ago and have been very pleased with the results, and certainly not tempted to replace it with a K3. I looked at the 7D briefly as a friend has one, and while the autofocus, metering and low-light performance seemed way ahead of the K20 I thought with carefully taken shots I was actually getting nicer-looking images.

I may be proved wrong, but I wonder if with current technology there are compromises starting to appear above about 20MP on 18x24ish sensors?

I'll observe with interest, but don't see myself buying one just yet, at least unless the price drops and the IQ is an improvement on the DA17-70.

It looks a good range for a walkabout lens, the WR is attractive, and as I mainly take landscape and buildings the aperture (or any slowness in focussing) isn't really a problem.

I remember seeing these advertised (in HP livery) in my office supplier's magazine and was tempted to take the plunge into digital at that point. I resisted as I couldn't justify charging it to the business!