Entertaining and informative for a Friday night!

When you press the 'replay' button on the *ist D to review images, with or without the histogram being invoked, you don't need to to press the 'replay' button again. Press the shutter instead and your back in shooting mode, much quicker and easier! I admit it took me a few months to realise that.

I am also agreeing that the *ist D is a superb camera, I use mine almost every other day for the last year and a half and it has not let me down. Even I can't quite believe that Pentax haven't replaced it yet... but it still does everything I need it to do, actually a lot more than I need it to do. I'm sure that more resolution is definitely on the way from the house of Pentax and when it does I know I'll be tempted, but I would prefer a speedy processor over another 2Mp. When the new *ist 'D' appears I'm positive it will be a lot cheaper to buy it from a reputable company in Canada or the U.S. Like George, I bought my *ist D from North America, risks are involved but too much money can be saved.

I am also agreeing that the DA 16-45mm is a fantastic lens. Without wishing to sound like an ebay advert, I can't recommend it highly enough, it gives professional looking results in my non-professional hands. After all, Pentax were originally all about optics and only optics, and then they made a camera or two many years after. It must be a hard decision for any photographer, whatever level, to give up such a collection of fine glass. And Pentax, to their credit, are making the most of that in the current advertising, their lenses are a major selling point for their digital SLRs and justly so.

Not a mention of 'circles of confusion', depth of field, depth of focus in my post, until now that is, for the sake of continuity. When this forum gets a head of steam it is unstoppable!

All the best,
Simon

Hi

Unfortunately not, the original lenses for this camera had the auto-focus motor in the lens itself, resulting in a heavy lens. Modern (all Pentaxes since the MEF) AF cameras have the auto-focusing motor in the body and AF lenses are now much lighter for it.

Regards,
Simon

A card reader is definitely the way to go, I couldn't imagine plugging my camera in to my computer all the time. I also open my images in PS7 and use Adobe's fantastic RAW plug-in, it really is a great piece of software. The only problem with this though is the price of PS7 (£400ish), it is worth it but when you compare it to free software then you may think twice.

I didn't have a problem with the Pentax software installation on a Mac. Could you tell us what the file extension is on the end of the Pentax electronic manual, it's usually a .pdf in my experience.

Regards,
Simon

Yes, good advice Georgey!

The Super A is an excellent camera and curiously undervalued on Ebay. I would rather have a Super A to almost all other Pentaxes out there (ME Super, MX... etc.), but then I do have a soft spot for it as my first Pentax was a Program A (that too is excellent) and eventually (years later!) I got hold of the Super A and I wasn't disappointed.

Regards,
Simon

I read something about this lens the other day, I was checking out and visiting a lot of the links on this Pentax User website at the time.

I believe that they only ever made eight 35/1.4's, although they must have been confident at one time as it apparently made an appearance in some of their printed marketing material of the time (not sure whether it appears in a Pentax 'Lens and Accessories' brochure.)

I will try to retrace my steps and let you know where I found all this info.

Regards

Simon

Hello group,

This is bonkers... ( ) I have one of these lenses with the "yellow-tinted multicoating.", but I call it radioactivity. It is already up to £36 (with 13 hours to go), almost unbelievable but a good lesson in 'selling techniques'.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=15240&item=3864...

Regards
Simon

Hi McBrian, I don't have experience of the Vivitar AF6000 but do have experience of the Starblitz Macro-Lite 1000. I found that the Starblitz unit worked ok with my Pentax-A 50mm f2.8 macro but worked even better with a longer focal length macro lens (i.e. my Tamron SP 90mm f2.5). That extra 40mm resulted in more pleasing results.

Regards,
Simon

Cheers Kim!

Did you just re-lubricate those 2 lenses then? Haven't got round to doing that job yet but I'm sure I will eventually. I do have a stiff focusing ring on an Pentax-F 35-135mm zoom, a bit different to a Tak though.

We had a beautiful day in the South East on Saturday, I was too busy (again!) to get out, but I wish I had. Sunny and crisp but with some mist. I hope some people made use of it.

Simon

I've not yet cleared the yellow peril, the sunbeds are booked out through Christmas. It made me wonder also whether you could clear slightly foggy lenses with sustained direct sunlight too.

As for the MV-1 and the other 'M's (I think), they all seem to have 5 obvious screws holding the top in place but then there are hidden screws as well, I am of the strong belief that something lurks within the wind-on lever itself and is hidden beneath the small round plate on top. But will I need another special took from Micro tools to get it off with damage?... that is the question on my lips at the moment.

You had me scampering for my Herbert Keppler book with regards to the Pentax S, you must be talking about the 1957 camera, the book says that the correct lens was the 55mm f/1.8 Takumar. A great find for £39!!!

Right, I 'm off to the Camera Repair Forum.

Regards
Simon

Thanks for the useful info John and Kim.

I was hoping to have gotten out and about with the Spotmatic and Takumar lenses before replying but, as usual, I don't know where my time has gone to.

Good news about the Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4, i don't use sunbeds (at all!) but I might make an appointment for the Takumar, I would never have thought that the lens could be saved. No sledge hammer required then.

Nice idea Kim! A section in this forum for M42 seems like it could be popular enough, it might also encourage more people to try out the older, but super quality, Asahi optics and cameras. Just talking about this has made my trigger finger itchy although a look outside at the overcast sky and the thermometer are deterrents! bbbrrrrrrrr...

Now for something completely different... Does any one know what I have to do to remove the top plate from an MV camera, i have removed the 5 obvious screws but am now puzzling about the next step?

Regards
Simon