I am sure the guy who runs the extreme-macro website uses a K10D - amazing results!

Thanks for the Samyang 24mm TS which is providing hours of fun, as you can see on my thread.

And here is the last one cropped you can see how sharp this lens is:

Ok, a couple more for HarisF1. This time to demonstrate the tilt function, and taken this time in good light and in the comfort of my home. I have found turning off focus peaking in live view gives much better results not just with this lens but generally, so these were both on a tripod and remote release at f11, 0.5" and iso100. Very close to the subject, and closer than the distance scale on the lens indicated so I have decided to ignore that in future. I wasn't at the closest setting so scope for close-up photography although you have to be careful not to brush the lens against the subject! So, here's the first one with the tilt in normal position:


And tilted downwards -8:


You can see how the depth of field is increased with the tilt, and also I am really pleased with how sharp these have turned out, and I cannot detect any CA either so feeling much happier.

I know you are all dying to see some results so I braved the arctic weather to try a few at a nearby church. These have just had the usual tweaking in Lightroom - clarity, shadow lightening, etc but no perspective correction nor CA correction. A couple aren't as sharp as they could be but that is down to my manual focusing.

Ok, Samyang 24mm TS just arrived from SRS so here are first impressions. The vertical shift is just slightly inhibited on the K1 by the overhang but I don't think it is too big a deal. An engineer might be able to chamfer the edge on the lens mechanism but not me. On the K50 there is enough space for it to move unrestricted. What I hadn't known is that both the tilt and shift mechanisms can be rotated up to 90 degrees independently, enabling both movements to be used in portrait and landscape modes; in portrait mode there is no restriction on the amount of movement but the shift adjustment button is very close to the camera overhang, so turning it is awkward. Two tiny separate levers release the tilt and shift mechanisms to rotate and according to the instructions you pull these levers to release the catch, after a broken nail and some swearing I realised that you just press these levers towards the camera body.

The tilt and shift movements do not feel high precision but solid enough, the knobs are small and fiddly and winding the shift upwards requires a bit of effort with the weight of the lens and in portrait mode the knob is so close to the K1 overhang that you cannot get a decent grip. I got over this by turning with one hand and gently helping lift with the other. However playing round I can see the benefits of the shift keeping everything straight so I am looking forward to a proper outing.

I found that in the camera menu you need to go to C4 - 26 "using aperture ring" and unlock the setting for "A" or nothing works. Exposures work in aperture priority and manual with the green button getting accurate readings, the focus assist works both through the viewfinder and rear screen but in the viewfinder the only option is a central focal spot. You need to focus after making all the adjustments and according to the instructions the depth of field scale cannot be relied upon except when both T&S are set to zero but that's the nature of these lenses.

Bonus is the 82mm filter thread which is the same as on the DFA 24-70mm.

My preferred option is a monopod, it’s light and quick to set up, and may just prove handy for fighting off predators!

The 15-30mm should come with a financial health warning: pretty soon you think a polariser and maybe some ND filters would be nice so you splurge on the Lee Filters SW150 system. Then you realise all this won’t fit into the bag you bought last year so you start looking at a new one - is this familiar to anyone?

Problem solved! Cleaned the contacts and now perfect exposures down to 1/8000 sec! Amazing.

Hi McGregNi, I was just messing about with the K1 + 24-70mm at different focal lengths and an AF360 FGZII flash hot shoe mounted, set to HS, manual setting at different speeds between /1000 to 1/250 and f2.8 iso100. I could see the flash fire but there must have been a mismatch between the shutter and flash because it came out dark. Winding the speed up to 1/200, when the flash reverted to TTL, and it was fine. The manual says I should see the useable distance on the flash screen but there was nothing.