All Forum Comments
Like the framing of number 2
Comment by pschlute posted on Ripon Cathedral. at 09/07/2019 - 21:33
richandfleur wrote:
This is sad to read. Another product that may have future issues. Not nice to feel like you’re on a ticking time bomb...
You should try running a Land Rover This is sad to read. Another product that may have future issues. Not nice to feel like you’re on a ticking time bomb...
Comment by pschlute posted on Another 16-85 problem at 08/07/2019 - 23:32
There was a thread on PentaxForums recently on leather cases for the K1. They really did look good.
Comment by pschlute posted on What's your latest acquisition? at 07/07/2019 - 23:02
There is no substitute for using a flash meter, and getting your start-up illumination correct. It will not change after that. You can then concentrate on getting the shots you want without worrying about exposure.
Comment by pschlute posted on Forced to use tav for studio portrait at 07/07/2019 - 18:22
GeoffSteyning wrote:
Similar to my own woes with the KP - I got one two weeks ago and spent a week with it, finding lots of things that just didn't work - couldn't even switch it on/off sometimes and needed to take the battery out and put it back in again to get some life out of it. I noticed the TAV setting was also a bit weird but left it to check more important things. I took it back to the shop and just let them try out a few things and they quickly agreed with me.
So a week later (two days ago) I got another KP from the shop (not black and silver like the original one). I haven't quite got over the problems with the most incompetent user manual I've ever picked up (even the term 'user manual' brings the term 'gobbledegook' into disrepute). Some of what should be the simplest controls - things that should come straight to hand, without seaching for the right buttons and dials, like exposure mode, focus mode and other smaller things, just seem to make operating the camera more complicated than it should be.
Again I'm finding the TAV option not working - even when the Auto ISO range is set to 200-3200, and various slow shutter speeds, in a well lit room - it still doesn't work. It also took a while to work out why the shake reduction system seemed to decide, on its own, when to switch on and off. Battery life is also very poor - it actually needs a spare, charged battery or perhaps the (over-priced, as usual) battery grip.
I'll give it another couple of weeks, take some test shots on a realistic outing and then decide whether it's fit for purpose.
BUT REALLY! I wish I could find something like the old Magic Lantern book (which I had for the K10D) - or even a quality e-book (which I found for my K5ii).
Really sounds like you either have been very unlucky in getting a lemon of a camera , again, or you do not know how to use it.Similar to my own woes with the KP - I got one two weeks ago and spent a week with it, finding lots of things that just didn't work - couldn't even switch it on/off sometimes and needed to take the battery out and put it back in again to get some life out of it. I noticed the TAV setting was also a bit weird but left it to check more important things. I took it back to the shop and just let them try out a few things and they quickly agreed with me.
So a week later (two days ago) I got another KP from the shop (not black and silver like the original one). I haven't quite got over the problems with the most incompetent user manual I've ever picked up (even the term 'user manual' brings the term 'gobbledegook' into disrepute). Some of what should be the simplest controls - things that should come straight to hand, without seaching for the right buttons and dials, like exposure mode, focus mode and other smaller things, just seem to make operating the camera more complicated than it should be.
Again I'm finding the TAV option not working - even when the Auto ISO range is set to 200-3200, and various slow shutter speeds, in a well lit room - it still doesn't work. It also took a while to work out why the shake reduction system seemed to decide, on its own, when to switch on and off. Battery life is also very poor - it actually needs a spare, charged battery or perhaps the (over-priced, as usual) battery grip.
I'll give it another couple of weeks, take some test shots on a realistic outing and then decide whether it's fit for purpose.
BUT REALLY! I wish I could find something like the old Magic Lantern book (which I had for the K10D) - or even a quality e-book (which I found for my K5ii).
Perhaps describe just one instance (and post a picture with exif intact) so we can try and diagnose the problem.
Comment by pschlute posted on Pentax KP ignores TAV setting at 07/07/2019 - 18:19
Well done Gareth, keep 'em coming.
Comment by pschlute posted on Few wedding images. at 07/07/2019 - 15:19
Chrism8 wrote:
Well shot John, #1 and 4# for me
Yes me too.Well shot John, #1 and 4# for me
Comment by pschlute posted on Precious McKenzie at ADAPS at 07/07/2019 - 15:17
sebas77 wrote:
Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
With the K1 especially, how can you tell the difference nowdays ?Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
Comment by pschlute posted on Forced to use tav for studio portrait at 07/07/2019 - 15:06
I had a go at working on the colour version of this image. I think I may have overdone the sky a bit........
I did'nt change the aspect ratio of this, perhaps I still need to ?
I did'nt change the aspect ratio of this, perhaps I still need to ?
Comment by pschlute posted on Italian bridge revisited at 06/07/2019 - 15:00
Adding to what John has written using a AdobeRGB image to post to the web is not a good idea.
There can be an advantage in starting off with a AdobeRGB image (or a wider gamut ProPhoto image), doing all your editing in that wide colour space and then converting the profile to sRGB before saving. This is because the wider gamut colour space is going to show less artefacts after an edit than a narrow one. But if you are going to go down that route you need to use a wide gamut monitor so you can see what your colours are doing during the editing process.
There can be an advantage in starting off with a AdobeRGB image (or a wider gamut ProPhoto image), doing all your editing in that wide colour space and then converting the profile to sRGB before saving. This is because the wider gamut colour space is going to show less artefacts after an edit than a narrow one. But if you are going to go down that route you need to use a wide gamut monitor so you can see what your colours are doing during the editing process.
Comment by pschlute posted on Yellows and Reds at 04/07/2019 - 12:49
