Forced to use tav for studio portrait
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
With the K1 especially, how can you tell the difference nowdays ?
Peter
My Flickr page
My studio portraits are usually in tripod with live view. I can't use M because in M the lv works using the actual aperture instead of the widest one making obviously everything super dark.
this is why I work in tav,but tav has a drawback, I am forced to set the iso range which cannot be anything else than 100-200. This means that I always shoot at iso 200. Do you think there is a workaround?
Thought I'd try it. Just put my K-1 into LV ad TAV, I can get ISOs from 100-3200 (the limit I have set.) So can't see where you're coming from.
John K
the only reason why I'd like 100 is to better recover photos. It may happen that I get good underexposed photos and it would be better if they were underexposed at iso 100 rather than 200
If it’s a still-life tripod shot then you can manual focus with live view rear screen at a reasonable brightness, and then swap to your manual mode for the actual shot.
If it’s flash based, and you need to focus each shot individually, then yeah I can see your predicament.
As others have said, I’d be interested to see how worse the noise at iso 200 is from iso 100 these days?
John K
Get the exposure and lighting right and they'll be no need to recover anything!
That would be the dream

Random point, but from previous moon shot investigations the metering mode influenced the rear live view screen exposure, even when in full manual M mode for the actual photo shot.
In my case setting this to spot would allow the moon to be properly exposed on the rear screen, so I could use digital zoom and focus peaking to nail the lens focus. Without that mode the moon would wash out and over expose, and there would be no details shown to help focus.
Just a wild out of the box idea...
sebas77
Member
Southsea
this is why I work in tav,but tav has a drawback, I am forced to set the iso range which cannot be anything else than 100-200. This means that I always shoot at iso 200. Do you think there is a workaround?