Forced to use tav for studio portrait
Posted 07/07/2019 - 12:40
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I think from memory and previous queries you've made, your using flash so a base ISO of 100 / 200 is ideal
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 07/07/2019 - 13:25
Link
Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
Posted 07/07/2019 - 13:45
Link
You'll have to decide what's most important to you, to use TAV or ISO 100, everything's a compromise
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 07/07/2019 - 14:16
Link
Well you mean on the K1, as I think it's something happening only on this machine or maybe pentax in general, but I don't think it's a standard behavior. It seems to me that the pentax wasn't designed with this situation in mind which is weird isn't it?
Posted 07/07/2019 - 14:20
Link
I've never used LV on any studio portraiture I've done so haven't come across the issue on a shoot
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:06
Link
sebas77 wrote:
Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
Yep but I am a bit frustrated with the fact that I can't use iso 100
With the K1 especially, how can you tell the difference nowdays ?
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:06
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sebas77 wrote:
My studio portraits are usually in tripod with live view. I can't use M because in M the lv works using the actual aperture instead of the widest one making obviously everything super dark.
this is why I work in tav,but tav has a drawback, I am forced to set the iso range which cannot be anything else than 100-200. This means that I always shoot at iso 200. Do you think there is a workaround?
My studio portraits are usually in tripod with live view. I can't use M because in M the lv works using the actual aperture instead of the widest one making obviously everything super dark.
this is why I work in tav,but tav has a drawback, I am forced to set the iso range which cannot be anything else than 100-200. This means that I always shoot at iso 200. Do you think there is a workaround?
Thought I'd try it. Just put my K-1 into LV ad TAV, I can get ISOs from 100-3200 (the limit I have set.) So can't see where you're coming from.
John K
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:18
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I'll answer both. It's a flash based shoot so for the camera the exposure before the shoot will be extremely underexposed which will push always to use 200 (because I set it as max)
the only reason why I'd like 100 is to better recover photos. It may happen that I get good underexposed photos and it would be better if they were underexposed at iso 100 rather than 200
the only reason why I'd like 100 is to better recover photos. It may happen that I get good underexposed photos and it would be better if they were underexposed at iso 100 rather than 200
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:26
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Do you need to change focus regularly?
If it’s a still-life tripod shot then you can manual focus with live view rear screen at a reasonable brightness, and then swap to your manual mode for the actual shot.
If it’s flash based, and you need to focus each shot individually, then yeah I can see your predicament.
As others have said, I’d be interested to see how worse the noise at iso 200 is from iso 100 these days?
If it’s a still-life tripod shot then you can manual focus with live view rear screen at a reasonable brightness, and then swap to your manual mode for the actual shot.
If it’s flash based, and you need to focus each shot individually, then yeah I can see your predicament.
As others have said, I’d be interested to see how worse the noise at iso 200 is from iso 100 these days?
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:28
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Get the exposure and lighting right and they'll be no need to recover anything!
John K
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:29
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It's better to make a mistake at iso 100 than iso 200. If I have to recover two stops, wouldn't be the noise equivalent of iso 400 vs iso 800? I may be wrong on this, just intuition
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:30
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JAK wrote:
Get the exposure and lighting right and they'll be no need to recover anything!
Get the exposure and lighting right and they'll be no need to recover anything!
That would be the dream . In some complicated setup it's enough a step backward to ruin it, but overall you are right. I am in fact changing my setup to use tethering so I can verify it more often.
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:32
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Also, have you tried changing your metering mode to spot?
Random point, but from previous moon shot investigations the metering mode influenced the rear live view screen exposure, even when in full manual M mode for the actual photo shot.
In my case setting this to spot would allow the moon to be properly exposed on the rear screen, so I could use digital zoom and focus peaking to nail the lens focus. Without that mode the moon would wash out and over expose, and there would be no details shown to help focus.
Just a wild out of the box idea...
Random point, but from previous moon shot investigations the metering mode influenced the rear live view screen exposure, even when in full manual M mode for the actual photo shot.
In my case setting this to spot would allow the moon to be properly exposed on the rear screen, so I could use digital zoom and focus peaking to nail the lens focus. Without that mode the moon would wash out and over expose, and there would be no details shown to help focus.
Just a wild out of the box idea...
Posted 07/07/2019 - 15:33
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It's not continuous light, it wouldn't work.
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597 posts
13 years
Southsea
this is why I work in tav,but tav has a drawback, I am forced to set the iso range which cannot be anything else than 100-200. This means that I always shoot at iso 200. Do you think there is a workaround?