All Forum Comments
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Homework - Symmetry at 15/02/2010 - 22:12
General use with all but my macro lenses
ISO100, green mode, Auto focus centre spot only, centre weighted or spot metering. JPEG 95% of the time. SR on, some times use the AEL lock if I need too
Macro
ISO 100, M mode, shutter 1/180 usually cause I have the flash on and highest f I can get away with. SR on
Regards
PaulM
ISO100, green mode, Auto focus centre spot only, centre weighted or spot metering. JPEG 95% of the time. SR on, some times use the AEL lock if I need too
Macro
ISO 100, M mode, shutter 1/180 usually cause I have the flash on and highest f I can get away with. SR on
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on camera set-up at 11/02/2010 - 02:58
If I understand it correctly every national park here in NSW has the same deal, personal photos are ok, but if you want to sell them then you need permission from the state parks authority.
Darling harbour is owned by the harbour foreshore authority and you need permission from them if your are going to sell you images and there is a similar restrictions on the Opera house, but I am not sure who owns it !!
But, and here the best bit, a years photography pass from the parks authority (covering all parks in NSW) is only $250, you can also get day passes.
So yes there is a fee, but it is very reasonable, Does anyone know what the NT want to charge?
It could just be a nominal fee to disuade the snap happy from flooding the market with millions of images?
Regards
PaulM
Darling harbour is owned by the harbour foreshore authority and you need permission from them if your are going to sell you images and there is a similar restrictions on the Opera house, but I am not sure who owns it !!
But, and here the best bit, a years photography pass from the parks authority (covering all parks in NSW) is only $250, you can also get day passes.
So yes there is a fee, but it is very reasonable, Does anyone know what the NT want to charge?
It could just be a nominal fee to disuade the snap happy from flooding the market with millions of images?
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Found this online and thought it was unfair at 11/02/2010 - 01:21
Thats just brilliant. Love it
Hope you had a good Birthday
Regards
PaulM
Hope you had a good Birthday
bforbes wrote:
Was the K7 inside the cake Happy Birthday.
I know the K7 is Water resisatnt but is it Cake Resistant ?Was the K7 inside the cake Happy Birthday.
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on How much icing for a K10D? at 09/02/2010 - 21:45
Beaten to it by Hefty
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Humidity and Fungus any ideas on how to reduce either? at 05/02/2010 - 02:12
Dr. Mhuni wrote:
Paul - The dehumidifiers I got were along these lines: link
Ignore the first two reviewers - the last one is right!
The silica turns from blue to pink as it absorbs moisture, then you recharge. The only thing that put me off these was that the chemical that makes them change colour is carcinogenic. Though I'm assuming that as these are widely available in the west (and I guess you don't come into contact with this chemical unless you dismantle them) that there's no risk entailed in using them.
Thanks for the link Dr Mhuni,hefty1 wrote:
Cheers, Hefty. So the fungus will generally appear on the front element? Or should I be peering assiduously into the lenses as well?Dr. Mhuni wrote:
Having said that, I don't know what exactly I should be looking for. Or how I should do it (I just stop down using the bayonet and look through the glass). Any suggestions much appreciated on this score!
You're looking for fine web-like trails which usually start at the edge of the glass and then move inwards if not checked in time. This is from a Mamiya lens I had - ignore the yellowing and the dust spots, fungus wasn't the only problem this lens had! Having said that, I don't know what exactly I should be looking for. Or how I should do it (I just stop down using the bayonet and look through the glass). Any suggestions much appreciated on this score!
Paul - The dehumidifiers I got were along these lines: link
Ignore the first two reviewers - the last one is right!
The silica turns from blue to pink as it absorbs moisture, then you recharge. The only thing that put me off these was that the chemical that makes them change colour is carcinogenic. Though I'm assuming that as these are widely available in the west (and I guess you don't come into contact with this chemical unless you dismantle them) that there's no risk entailed in using them.
I will invest in something like that I think,
As for the fungus, it doesn't always appear on the front element, for example on the sigma its somewhere in the middle group, on the SMC 50 1.7 it was on the inside and outside of the rear group and on the poor old CZJ I think is on ALL sides of ALL the elements
When looking through the lens from the front (ie where the words 50mm f1.7 etc) hold it up towards the the light (I found flourescents work the best) but not directly at the light then look through, if you have any spidery lines like in Heftys example of soft fuzzy patches they will reflect (or refract) the light. See how Cardiff_gareth has done it with his lens in the classified section here the light source is off centre and you can see all the dust / fungus etc. Also If its a zoom then zoom out fully, this will magnify everything.
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Humidity and Fungus any ideas on how to reduce either? at 05/02/2010 - 02:10
Thanks for all the responses people,
Clarky has recommended a good repair centre which I will be visiting shortly with the first two patients and I am seriously considering a dry cabinet to put in the garage. This would solve two problems first and foremost being the fungus and the second being storage of my kit out of the house to keep the Mrs happy!
Unfortunately we have no air-con in the house which I guess would keep the air quite dry, so until I can get a dry cabinet, I think its going to be either the lamp in a box or a sealed box with moisture absorbing stuff like silica gel. Luckily I use most of my lenses quite frequntly so they should get a good exposure to light.
Regards
PaulM
Clarky has recommended a good repair centre which I will be visiting shortly with the first two patients and I am seriously considering a dry cabinet to put in the garage. This would solve two problems first and foremost being the fungus and the second being storage of my kit out of the house to keep the Mrs happy!
Unfortunately we have no air-con in the house which I guess would keep the air quite dry, so until I can get a dry cabinet, I think its going to be either the lamp in a box or a sealed box with moisture absorbing stuff like silica gel. Luckily I use most of my lenses quite frequntly so they should get a good exposure to light.
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Humidity and Fungus any ideas on how to reduce either? at 05/02/2010 - 00:26
johnriley wrote:
Lenses have to breath, so sealing them up may not be a good idea. Plenty of Silica gel sachets might be a better bet, plus storage out of bags and boxes so that the air can circulate.
For more information, there must be some info on the web about tropical use of cameras and lenses.
Google search?
Thanks John,Lenses have to breath, so sealing them up may not be a good idea. Plenty of Silica gel sachets might be a better bet, plus storage out of bags and boxes so that the air can circulate.
For more information, there must be some info on the web about tropical use of cameras and lenses.
Google search?
I do understand that a lens needs to breath but does it need to breath hot humid air ? (its about 90% humidity at the moment over here)
Thats what made me think about the clear boxes, it would let the light through but with the aid of moisture absorbing pouches I thought it may reduce the growth of fungus.
hefty1 wrote:
It also depends on the cements used on the glass during manufacture. Modern synthetic compounds (which I guess Pentax now use as I have never seen fungus in modern Pentax glass) are unpalatable to most fungi, whereas Canada Balsam (which nearly all manufacturers used up until the 80's and some probably still do) is a tasty treat for them.
The best way to avoid infections is to keep them dry but in an airy place. You can buy special cupboards with de-humidifiers built in or you can drill holes in the side of an existing cupboard and put it somewhere warm with some silica gel packets. Regular use outside with some UV exposure won't do any harm either.
Again thanks Hefty,It also depends on the cements used on the glass during manufacture. Modern synthetic compounds (which I guess Pentax now use as I have never seen fungus in modern Pentax glass) are unpalatable to most fungi, whereas Canada Balsam (which nearly all manufacturers used up until the 80's and some probably still do) is a tasty treat for them.
The best way to avoid infections is to keep them dry but in an airy place. You can buy special cupboards with de-humidifiers built in or you can drill holes in the side of an existing cupboard and put it somewhere warm with some silica gel packets. Regular use outside with some UV exposure won't do any harm either.
Like I said I understand and almost expect older lenses to have / get fungus, but the sigma is less than 2 years old and on further inspection it looks like my tammy 70-300 has a early signs of fungus too!
The trouble is I am going to struggle with Dry and Airy ! as they aren't mutually exclusive at the moment. SO I can either have Dry or Airy.
Google has given a few ideas, one of which is a box/cupboard with an incandescent lamp in, the thoery is the lamp creates enought heat to erradicate the moisture, this is something I could build my self. the other is one of these or another home made remedy is a sealed clear plastic container with a shedload of moisture absorbing sachets (silica gel, Closet camels, dry balls etc.
?Has any body tried a dry cabinet?
I think I am gonna PM Clarky to see what he does ISTR he has a few old taks and suff
Thanks for your imput guys
Regards
PaulM
Comment by pnjmcc posted on Humidity and Fungus any ideas on how to reduce either? at 04/02/2010 - 11:06
I take it it has to be shot symetrical rather than cutting the glass case out and aligning it up in photoshop?
Regards
PaulM