Taking into account all the color options it may look like what was shown here :
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-news-rumors/179510-k-r-successor-photo...#post1873471

Did you ask SRS how much would be delivery to Jersey (your plan was to buy it online anyway). SRS used to give free delivery to UK to this forum members, not sure how Jersey qualifies, but give Chris over there a call and ask.
As for central London shops, best to buy it from "pro centre" - 2 years warranty vs 1 year. You can look for dealers here:
http://www.pentax.co.uk/en/dealersearch.html

Biscuits maybe?, or at least some K5 mk2 .

18-250mm when traveling, small, light, covers most of the mm's iq is not bad, usually enough for walking around places. 10-18mm and 50mm/f1.7 are additional walk around ones I usually have with me, small, light - in these situations when 18-250 can't do.
When walking around some woods, parks, airshow, airports when I have more space in my backpack - 60-250mm -just because I don't have 300mm or other good, longer telephoto.

It is not good and lenses are so slooowww .
There are specific situations where tools in use really must be up to the challenge/work.
Just try to imagine someone with current Pentax DSLR and DA*60-250mm i.e at Mach Loop, trying to catch something in focus, some Mach Loop examples:
http://www.airliners.net/photo/USA---Air/McDonnell-Douglas-F-15E/1130381/L/

http://jetphotos.net/viewphoto.php?id=7189304&nseq=55

http://jetphotos.net/viewphoto.php?id=7236416&nseq=4

http://jetphotos.net/viewphoto.php?id=7236421&nseq=3

Some very nice pictures.
This lens works pretty well.

Thanks for feedback by the way. I do admit I have number of a bit over-sharpened pictures, PPed them longer time ago and was to lazy to do them again (as own perception changes).
Over-saturation is new to me, in fact in 95% situations I do not add saturation in PP, but I do often use (again) sharpening (unsharp mask) to only add overall contrast to image, there is a trick for this, maybe I have to look at these pictures again, or maybe it is a time to calibrate my monitor again.

David - as per Mike's link, I would only add that there is a plugin for gimp that does all that magic, so no need to go through all steps described in tutorial.
It is just one of many algorithms of sharpening. Depends on situation/picture you get different results depends how you sharpen. I usually chose one depending on the picture I'm trying to sharpen.

Gimp could be some option if you want to try some PP (also noticed that your picture needs some clockwise rotation, it sinks to the left) - I wrote about gimp in this thread already.

I've just did a quick sharpen on your picture downloaded from gallery (so with all quality loss you mentioned - I hope you don't mind. In fact I've over-sharpened it, but to show how many micro details you may get with good sharpening.
The only PP I did on it was sharpening, you may notice how brighter it looks in places thanks to particular sharpen algorithm I used and improved micro contrast (i.e branches).
See also how many details can be recovered from for example road, these small stones started to shine and tracks are nicely visible now.
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/52mgex.jpg[/IMG]

Now, we've really hijacked this thread .

Bit soft and lacks in microcontrast, could really benefit from a bit of smart sharpening .
Nice anyway.

Gimp is free and quite good. This is what I use. Also there's plenty of plugins for it to give more features.
If you want you can also use Ufraw to open RAW files and do basic adjustments there, then it can import picture directly into gimp where you can finish it up with sharpen, precise corrections, etc.